Saturday, June 25, 2011

Fun in the California Sun

A quick stop in a Nevada County library allows me a little catch-up time. I'll need to post more photos later however. I have been in the South Lake Tahoe region now for just over a week, climbing entirely at Lover's Leap.  There is so much rock around here it makes my neck sore.  I haven't yet explored beyond the fabulous and fun cliffs at Lover's Leap.  There are so many classic moderate climbs at the Leap that there has not yet been any need to venture further.  It is so convenient to be able to climb from the campground.  When I got in the van this morning to drive Charlie and Randy to the airport, it took me a few moments to remember how to drive! Where is reverse? How do I shift? What does this big round wheel do?

The landscape changes dramatically when you go over the mountain passes above Lake Tahoe and east into the valley below in Nevada.  It becomes a desert environment again. And it didn't take long to be re-immersed in the un-pleasantries of the Nevada way of life. Casinos, sprawl, heat, unfriendly people and gas stations that do not accept credit cards. That's right - I cannot fill my tank at the unless I pay cash or use a DEBIT card. I suppose Nevada businesses are all about making the money now, not later. What a crock! I guess I'll have to choose between $4.10/gal gas in CA or $3.70/gal gas in Nevada cash only.

Meredith and I will stock up on supplies, do some laundry then climb a few more days before heading out this Thursday I expect.  For any interested climbing readers, the routes climbed at the Leap thus far (if I can remember accurately) are as follows:
* Deception 5.6 (Hogsback) - I climbed a 5.7 finger crack variation which was quite nice
* Harvey Wallbanger's Right 5.7 (Hogsback) - I thought this climb was very fun and interesting with 2 small roofs on the 2nd pitch. Highly recommended.
* The Groove 5.8 (LL Lower Buttress) - a very spicy 2 pitch climb that keeps your attention with distinct differences in climbing techniques and rock features between pitches. Wow!
* Surrealistic Pillar 5.7 (LL Lower Buttress) - a fun climb and worth doing, but a bit over-rated in my opinion
* Hogwild 5.7 (Hogwild) - a spicy face and small crack line. be sure to use 2 60M ropes or a 70M to get down from the rap anchor.
* Mixologist 5.9 (Hogwild) - a terrific climb with a single bolt protected crux over the roofy bulge that continues to a fantastically fun jam crack.
* Corrugation Corner 5.7 (LL Main Wall) - probably the most popular climb at LL and for good reason. Three STELLAR pitches in and out of a huge dihedral.  My favorite climb at the Leap.
* The Line 5.9 (LL East Wall) - also hugely popular and also for good reason.Considered sustained climbing. I found it to be pure fun and easier than I expected. Personally I think some of the 5.8s here have harder moves.  I HIGHLY recommend this climb.
* East Crack 5.8 (LL East Wall) - a fine 3 pitch line that is of great quality from top to bottom.
* Haystack 5.8 (LL East Wall) - probably the most popular 8 at the Leap. All 3 pitches are fun and the second pitch roof is hard for the grade when onsighting - apparently once you know the gear, moves and the jug hold it feels easier. Don't miss this climb!

No comments:

Post a Comment