tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55196329576216925222024-02-22T17:00:57.255-05:00Corners, Cracks and CruxesExploring the Pleasures and Challenges of Life Through Climbing (and some other things)Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.comBlogger107125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-32695145247819867332023-03-11T17:25:00.002-05:002023-03-11T17:25:59.890-05:00Blog 2.0 - 2023, The Arizona Chapter<p> It's been nearly 4 years, and if nothing else there are some photos and stories to share on the latest adventure to Tucson, Arizona. There was plenty to blog about between 2019 and now, but the days, weeks, and months of life pass rapidly - especially in the wake of a global pandemic (SARS-COVID-19.) Having been almost 12 full years since I started the blog and with some new adventures on tap, why not pick it up again?</p><p>Italy (2020) was thwarted by COVID and travel by air is still risky, but we haven't gotten sick yet. So needing to use our Delta airline credits we figured air travel within the US was a safe bet - not for preventing illness, but mostly because if we did get sick we'd be in our home country in an AirBnB where we could be relatively comfortable. Having always wanted to check out the climbing on Mt. Lemmon near Tucson, Arizona we booked flights to the southwest.</p><p>Our new climbing friend Marty wanted to join us and we were meeting up with Randy and Beth from Colorado while there. Other than the unexpected TWO snowstorms and Marty getting COVID on Day 3, the rest of the story is told in photos and captions below.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMczXvq4v9hRMpkTkrZWklVX8-6jMYFioKwypAJBTYEqCBnz1wx4CLFE0Y08hyjtL6_K0jJGjT7UDm0JmDTJbPedvA30v9uBrsESS3TWHE4t0jprs4fOiYt-XKZhax3uP8m_4MF1tFq3C0Y_kXYi_SB9L2j8od_BVlSPDWOJzq9vvLE7Wx78jUjkxSMw/s2048/Trio%20at%20Sanctuary%20Cove%20.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMczXvq4v9hRMpkTkrZWklVX8-6jMYFioKwypAJBTYEqCBnz1wx4CLFE0Y08hyjtL6_K0jJGjT7UDm0JmDTJbPedvA30v9uBrsESS3TWHE4t0jprs4fOiYt-XKZhax3uP8m_4MF1tFq3C0Y_kXYi_SB9L2j8od_BVlSPDWOJzq9vvLE7Wx78jUjkxSMw/w400-h300/Trio%20at%20Sanctuary%20Cove%20.JPEG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day One, Tucson Mountains - the road was closed to Mt. Lemmon.<br />So we climbed a choss pile called The Saloon</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdWergZNLGGxowfxtF8MPuJbGYDGxVlInBo7fspmS9PQDX5slwjUwkUg23a-5p0_lNi8METd6o6i0blQn94pruhDXrgWzRdmhU7kOYiMa3tt0Xr0dKQay0SGPu2f_jy4M44K6lx9wXxViNi0AG9Dq021YNdVsnZ0lB6_OnJQYcpZ4Ld3VapULy9TNlqg/s2048/Randy%20Annie%20Sanctuary%20Cove.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdWergZNLGGxowfxtF8MPuJbGYDGxVlInBo7fspmS9PQDX5slwjUwkUg23a-5p0_lNi8METd6o6i0blQn94pruhDXrgWzRdmhU7kOYiMa3tt0Xr0dKQay0SGPu2f_jy4M44K6lx9wXxViNi0AG9Dq021YNdVsnZ0lB6_OnJQYcpZ4Ld3VapULy9TNlqg/s320/Randy%20Annie%20Sanctuary%20Cove.JPEG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut couple, eh?</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieAB-93KU2Gy9ZvKkyp6vreCidG5cFK3HkMUaEstXNds3S4ccmaUXdSqVfBkoEHJnjlf4fqx1GsCePH3HiXB2Awe34QOtai50iZc5p6u4UJcp830NHOtHxhWbPqagjTqOsB5yCp557lYN7Vr3DwZXR2-UD-CfMdB0OXYP8x2mH50Jbt9sIB-Pq5ZMpFg/s2048/La%20Milagrosa%20Canyon.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieAB-93KU2Gy9ZvKkyp6vreCidG5cFK3HkMUaEstXNds3S4ccmaUXdSqVfBkoEHJnjlf4fqx1GsCePH3HiXB2Awe34QOtai50iZc5p6u4UJcp830NHOtHxhWbPqagjTqOsB5yCp557lYN7Vr3DwZXR2-UD-CfMdB0OXYP8x2mH50Jbt9sIB-Pq5ZMpFg/w480-h640/La%20Milagrosa%20Canyon.JPEG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Milagrosa Canyon. "5.11 Heaven", but we climbed the easy routes</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq2DkfOt15HdK0o-JKDBziuK1Zz6TE_E8uQw7pOmmSmbejWWCYrlktSV2e5YruiPjw-3TFNmlETq5qJjXpG_5BVvmJzmbMQ0Qa5q_Ya-5IIJtozkp_c345UzsesHe9gxCLLi0lPeJYzW0Ev73iODkKuXyPHucWSLepztzX4nAWK17YmAWpHeJlQHA8WQ/s2048/foursome%20Milagrosa.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq2DkfOt15HdK0o-JKDBziuK1Zz6TE_E8uQw7pOmmSmbejWWCYrlktSV2e5YruiPjw-3TFNmlETq5qJjXpG_5BVvmJzmbMQ0Qa5q_Ya-5IIJtozkp_c345UzsesHe9gxCLLi0lPeJYzW0Ev73iODkKuXyPHucWSLepztzX4nAWK17YmAWpHeJlQHA8WQ/w640-h480/foursome%20Milagrosa.JPEG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 hours of hiking trying to find the wall in La Milagrosa, then 3 hours of climbing.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTm-z_Xhqy6PCYvW3ZzUKXgC3kNuO692peOpjwPpgYIa5SAg6X4Jgo0xJiV3gdYOn594kijE5V6zEgTlJvUtMulJdzcDHQ7LiEg3AGbWIcLsv18u6YF_LGhqTzACLuj3GjtDUnP23LQD_vZV-1oy51TtOVpkau52GF7EdqY81JJxjV9tihYinvz7oJdg/s2048/COVID%20Marty.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTm-z_Xhqy6PCYvW3ZzUKXgC3kNuO692peOpjwPpgYIa5SAg6X4Jgo0xJiV3gdYOn594kijE5V6zEgTlJvUtMulJdzcDHQ7LiEg3AGbWIcLsv18u6YF_LGhqTzACLuj3GjtDUnP23LQD_vZV-1oy51TtOVpkau52GF7EdqY81JJxjV9tihYinvz7oJdg/w480-h640/COVID%20Marty.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh No! COVID Marty at safe distance for afternoon happy hour at the AirBnB</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVwMAsrkv1U34E8HFL6dNbLdSaweLnV2dn2zSCcjO09qLxfaGK6bFhI0b5xYEkCBY2yMWpMc9DEh265JXTnf7-kNTIiHj4as7glyslGa-qMWaECXmJghcOGGEJIQzSNUF14eLTpr5F1_FaP4EU-M0LxYy3b7NsVUzbtlIXyB3JJdf0k2oIeS2b-rf4g/s2048/Annie%20Scorpion%20King.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVwMAsrkv1U34E8HFL6dNbLdSaweLnV2dn2zSCcjO09qLxfaGK6bFhI0b5xYEkCBY2yMWpMc9DEh265JXTnf7-kNTIiHj4as7glyslGa-qMWaECXmJghcOGGEJIQzSNUF14eLTpr5F1_FaP4EU-M0LxYy3b7NsVUzbtlIXyB3JJdf0k2oIeS2b-rf4g/w480-h640/Annie%20Scorpion%20King.JPEG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie topping Scorpion King at The Forehand Wall<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovTjLwMU9Wl87LozpFgxsIGnwssQl_tOCCKBy5jnHM5P0-lk0kkE4GuozlJwum_8uofGD0F3lqSKyhn3CCYnRcggWliGp1N7510eFXlHtwEW8U51kdBUN3SJIt969spjlDFVD1LNrg6rHQz9xDMVWeVPH7rpd9C0PJf4Ry6x5vTYeNGXqy8hrgsYmzw/s2048/Sabino%20Canyone%20Cholla.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovTjLwMU9Wl87LozpFgxsIGnwssQl_tOCCKBy5jnHM5P0-lk0kkE4GuozlJwum_8uofGD0F3lqSKyhn3CCYnRcggWliGp1N7510eFXlHtwEW8U51kdBUN3SJIt969spjlDFVD1LNrg6rHQz9xDMVWeVPH7rpd9C0PJf4Ry6x5vTYeNGXqy8hrgsYmzw/w480-h640/Sabino%20Canyone%20Cholla.JPEG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Sabino Canyon you see the second snowstorm during our visit<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzH6amMGEllHmNHJpoiYzVJ-sbeuDc0gRACkXgXcEHFTBUJ0Ep8wCIlT0L6BhKLnqMvZUB2xWq9TK-8d8-5XmlelNYbi4T8Z84P6x5scdESHvy8CT4SlGmgvuPupIyiRfd0ZF6rRIWC5m_P99QOJFDAxSZQkD3IsgxQzjiJZi877FSFSNTFoDShTFrBg/s2048/Suguaro%20view%20Caliente%20Canyon.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzH6amMGEllHmNHJpoiYzVJ-sbeuDc0gRACkXgXcEHFTBUJ0Ep8wCIlT0L6BhKLnqMvZUB2xWq9TK-8d8-5XmlelNYbi4T8Z84P6x5scdESHvy8CT4SlGmgvuPupIyiRfd0ZF6rRIWC5m_P99QOJFDAxSZQkD3IsgxQzjiJZi877FSFSNTFoDShTFrBg/w480-h640/Suguaro%20view%20Caliente%20Canyon.JPEG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iconic saguaro cactus</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBo8V2uoHqsIP6JDFa__02opOX2iU1YAsposYcFYwcEtEF_m8wz2R1as2KKq24cLU_RmxJ-ts-bNfTWBmJn_ljbHR1fB5d_pALpvgWjbyFWe1i60_7OWBVa4CHgRb-1TBDvoRIoXskrOOVH7oil7rqBU7sn2qbxJWcCIjlH3e3dxOmMiAn6VyLb0zDzQ/s2048/Lemmon%20creek%20view%20The%20Zoo.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBo8V2uoHqsIP6JDFa__02opOX2iU1YAsposYcFYwcEtEF_m8wz2R1as2KKq24cLU_RmxJ-ts-bNfTWBmJn_ljbHR1fB5d_pALpvgWjbyFWe1i60_7OWBVa4CHgRb-1TBDvoRIoXskrOOVH7oil7rqBU7sn2qbxJWcCIjlH3e3dxOmMiAn6VyLb0zDzQ/w480-h640/Lemmon%20creek%20view%20The%20Zoo.JPEG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of water running in the creeks</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfxX2FVK-rb-ExRTBZ19lCKxRselaaJLsIBoG7kEP2pKtrCMRVwB6kxqTK-WGYKDoU3hi5hiv1j_dIq3z6FMewEQFw5Y3aN2QeZeK__AR2zapyEughFMoCkoohj42dZ6sY20MQqoYWb1Njlex4iTFcg1OVEVqYdbqs4epZ0G9XBOUyDFYzpMesxwsYg/s2048/Lemmon%20The%20Waterin%20Hole%20crag.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfxX2FVK-rb-ExRTBZ19lCKxRselaaJLsIBoG7kEP2pKtrCMRVwB6kxqTK-WGYKDoU3hi5hiv1j_dIq3z6FMewEQFw5Y3aN2QeZeK__AR2zapyEughFMoCkoohj42dZ6sY20MQqoYWb1Njlex4iTFcg1OVEVqYdbqs4epZ0G9XBOUyDFYzpMesxwsYg/w640-h480/Lemmon%20The%20Waterin%20Hole%20crag.JPEG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Watering Hole cliff at The Zoo crags just above Molino Campground</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIy0gMSBLhfq3vbaUaxXnU88z0tKAZ9yLbXw_H9o403TXWXlcnwIabsE1qgZoRP1-WQnWu4763ep5HhB7G75QD5hYwCNvWbICM-4iF6P9vt1EYFM97A2763Ryyi0KPmIkSfDWkq-4jJtO2__N8CmvaGr18kYKMX4HscPAuwNb6wpYBaxShxxLalKmKZQ/s2048/Jean%20on%20Deer%20Direct%20.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIy0gMSBLhfq3vbaUaxXnU88z0tKAZ9yLbXw_H9o403TXWXlcnwIabsE1qgZoRP1-WQnWu4763ep5HhB7G75QD5hYwCNvWbICM-4iF6P9vt1EYFM97A2763Ryyi0KPmIkSfDWkq-4jJtO2__N8CmvaGr18kYKMX4HscPAuwNb6wpYBaxShxxLalKmKZQ/w480-h640/Jean%20on%20Deer%20Direct%20.JPEG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing Deer Direct (slabby sport route)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlnYiGqodaDBQTy2oELB72-3vhyeWcqkkFo7IUwP_OWqRXqwMoropJtfzb43XApYEkc9xptJZ6sWhbHI8QTuGnq5uL51zRR3OBuw3olWz86ChBrIP-opJqmYgkm3ucRrQAff6T8ucQS8EHi6Apb5Eu-AGSL--cvO51bJKCHt42v7YqXzQCYhk5A8BNw/s2048/Foursome%20Lemmon.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlnYiGqodaDBQTy2oELB72-3vhyeWcqkkFo7IUwP_OWqRXqwMoropJtfzb43XApYEkc9xptJZ6sWhbHI8QTuGnq5uL51zRR3OBuw3olWz86ChBrIP-opJqmYgkm3ucRrQAff6T8ucQS8EHi6Apb5Eu-AGSL--cvO51bJKCHt42v7YqXzQCYhk5A8BNw/w640-h480/Foursome%20Lemmon.JPEG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zoo animals after climbing at The Zoo!<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-25213224843264973032019-09-26T10:26:00.000-04:002019-09-26T10:26:28.490-04:00Kindness, Compassion, Dignity<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One Sunday afternoon in October of 2015 my mother in Maryland called me and it was clear she wasn't feeling well. This was the start of a prolonged and often gruesome march along the path of decline. In my mother's case, this was defined by her disease - Alzheimer's. A swift trip to Maryland where I remained for 3 weeks marked some of the most trying days I have ever experienced. With the flip of a switch, I was a caregiver, furiously working with doctors, therapists, insurance companies, assisted living facilities and lawyers.<br />
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Removing my mother from her treasured home that she cared for and valued for over 55 years (most of that time independently) was an agonizing decision followed by enduring the hardships of confusion, change, and emotions for the next few years. Despite all of this she was fortunate (thanks to long term care insurance) to be able to afford the premium fees at a well-respected care facility. This doesn't make the dementia process easier, but I am grateful to her for her own forethought and planning regarding her end-of-life care. Without it, I would have faced the additional burdens and stress of caring for her at home. That scenario is all too typical today.<br />
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(Betsy passed away in March of 2018 freeing herself of the hardships of dementia.)<br />
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Caregiving your parent(s) at home isn't all bad of course. The intimate times you share living together would not be experienced otherwise. But make no bones about it - caregiving in your home is arduous, depleting and potentially wreckful. To undertake this is a huge sacrifice. To do it well is exceptionally honorable.<br />
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In Seattle, we have a friend along with her husband who is caring for her 96-year-old mother in their home. Our time with them and their two 16-year old little dogs was enlightening and inspiring. Marta, an only child, cares for her most wonderful, endearing mother Barbara who we all fondly call "Bat." Husband John is a vital part of the caregiving, silently making meals, transporting, guiding and encouraging Bat daily.<br />
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Bat suffers from numerous health issues including <a href="https://www.macular.org/what-macular-degeneration-alt?utm_expid=.U-NbhAQoTROx5WyrxrLxPQ.1&utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F" target="_blank">macular degeneration</a> which limits her vision terribly. She is dementia-free however, a blessing she and all are most grateful for. I've included some videos and photos here to provide some flavor - none of which do justice to the actual experience of living these moments. Nevertheless, we are most grateful to have shared these days and nights with them. And my highest honor and praise to Marta, John and everyone who performs caregiving at this level - a thankless but saintly task!<br />
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Here we all have a good laugh about something while playing a game.</div>
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These 2 precious bichons turned 16 and Marta gave them birthday cake. Consider what it might be like to be 112 years old when you can't see or hear. It might take a moment, but once you realize there's cake there's no hesitation!
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV257hhl3uUaimFGxuqY1E34eyBvwR_W3ktfqfFVR-cNqWGreQwInfbiMBvFd3MaBzmKiufQr2FO1WbyCwVkpwF_q3eTDVmbAgrg2mj1utliNURseMqFMzRMmCwQSln3mcbXej39Mfc9yI/s1600/BatSandwich.JPEG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV257hhl3uUaimFGxuqY1E34eyBvwR_W3ktfqfFVR-cNqWGreQwInfbiMBvFd3MaBzmKiufQr2FO1WbyCwVkpwF_q3eTDVmbAgrg2mj1utliNURseMqFMzRMmCwQSln3mcbXej39Mfc9yI/s640/BatSandwich.JPEG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie and Bat at the visitor center near North Cascades</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN3emCF0xwIyIbkJpyxSA10lcLnHHeueFT7uUrgzodO3rI5hJEHGc4TpcssDat3QDrtl_RcmozbPhhqgyryB6taA6V-KMKM9vxBMIHZq-OnHM0VYaMpuIcLvQidC7z8_b6XM6nsIdOryPG/s1600/AnnieBatNorthCascades.JPEG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1203" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN3emCF0xwIyIbkJpyxSA10lcLnHHeueFT7uUrgzodO3rI5hJEHGc4TpcssDat3QDrtl_RcmozbPhhqgyryB6taA6V-KMKM9vxBMIHZq-OnHM0VYaMpuIcLvQidC7z8_b6XM6nsIdOryPG/s640/AnnieBatNorthCascades.JPEG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie and I riding with her - we call it a "Bat Sandwich"</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-12760554884095112122019-09-24T18:22:00.002-04:002019-09-24T18:22:12.026-04:00Yes, It CAN be Done Better!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We were most impressed by the way things are done both in Seattle and in British Columbia. It all seems to center around simple courtesy and respect. With very few exceptions, everyone we met in public spaces, on the trails and in the retail shops and restaurants were happy, friendly and delighted to serve. Even the cashiers at the grocery stores and the housekeeping staff in public restrooms were delightful! We talked to Canadians some about their view of Americans and for the most part, they still like us as people but are dumbfounded about where our country is headed and what our policymakers and politicians are up to. No surprises there. Here are some photos to characterize some of the good and better ideas we came across.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xixMQp9jOECBcGBdMu1qZGOYAWBccdUGC7VGl5iGmDaTaszX6XeiPpKy8r_fHpH3tnPjKOmj2BuMIK8Q2Z2DjFIShjKghKq3rr248-j0E0tc6WPSwRuc63t_fwyloQXKc9xG5GsS0HZ9/s400/Trail1.JPEG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Example of trail beauty at Skaha Bluffs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNOjTtOPibb_vVgqaGccnkVcfnUJf6c_C2BO3reijlv-pT9VFuiiSSsZN8mxRZ8IYlILaKu5_37p40BZpHIvGu7wZI7IsgLWGnhoir5vcit-irPVfnXp0czs9XtZuBz9-G2iuG30umcTcU/s1600/Trail2.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNOjTtOPibb_vVgqaGccnkVcfnUJf6c_C2BO3reijlv-pT9VFuiiSSsZN8mxRZ8IYlILaKu5_37p40BZpHIvGu7wZI7IsgLWGnhoir5vcit-irPVfnXp0czs9XtZuBz9-G2iuG30umcTcU/s400/Trail2.JPEG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nicely maintained</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nicely marked! Includes a crag map!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcZXgozNBUZCNq1pSykn8CeOP_lldj53gbA4glrosulUXHYbRiF_q1zyFET-7afJaskxKmG7CyWjC8ORlSTqMwZhH3543KpRDEH1WFs3X237IKB-olOcXb6EHjc4fplO4L4IijLQqLehn/s1600/Dog+Impacts+Sign.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcZXgozNBUZCNq1pSykn8CeOP_lldj53gbA4glrosulUXHYbRiF_q1zyFET-7afJaskxKmG7CyWjC8ORlSTqMwZhH3543KpRDEH1WFs3X237IKB-olOcXb6EHjc4fplO4L4IijLQqLehn/s640/Dog+Impacts+Sign.JPEG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can't believe I haven't yet seen this at climbing areas that we frequent in the U.S. <br />And we saw not a single dog at the climbing crags the 2 days we were there. <br />A welcomed non-sighting!</td></tr>
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<br />In Squamish, they have similar signage and pretty ample restroom access. This was my favorite sign!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQVTh8A0HCvL8ZcqvQWUyJfoUQkEuHphd7aJ8_DFsWKm_CMEjfcEeU6OyhPWP_CsCaXWzxKItki6jguad51AePHB4p6VypSHt8kHhJE876AInymBt8A72qeCIBJ5iQXHSiExNKLSl0zY5e/s1600/No+Shit+Sign+Smoke+Bluffs.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQVTh8A0HCvL8ZcqvQWUyJfoUQkEuHphd7aJ8_DFsWKm_CMEjfcEeU6OyhPWP_CsCaXWzxKItki6jguad51AePHB4p6VypSHt8kHhJE876AInymBt8A72qeCIBJ5iQXHSiExNKLSl0zY5e/s640/No+Shit+Sign+Smoke+Bluffs.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doggie bag dispensers are throughout the city of Squamish</td></tr>
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And by the way, in Washington State plastic bags are banned (or so it seems) at the grocery stores. If you don't bring your own bags and use the paper bags you are charged 5 cents per bag. In BC we found there were plastic bags but the cashier ALWAYS asked politely if we had our own bags and when we didn't we felt ashamed. From what I understand, Canada approaches the issue in a more voluntary and incentivized way. They call it the 3 Rs of product stewardship - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.</div>
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In Seattle, bikes rule the roads. It sometimes seemed there were as many bicyclists on the city streets as cars (not of course on the highways which are riddled with bad traffic). And eBikes are available everywhere. We used the bright orange JUMP bikes (rent via the Uber app) to get back from downtown to our friend's house one afternoon.</div>
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Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-80111351676739577702019-09-22T18:32:00.002-04:002019-09-22T20:57:19.943-04:00Run From the RainBy later in the week the forecast became less muddy, more clear - for RAIN that is! 100% chance of RAIN (not "showers") the next 2 days is enough to want to make you run for the hills - dry climate - but where? When we descended from the Laughing Crack there were 4 young men awaiting their turn - glad to advise where we should run to. Someplace called "SKAHA". Less than a day's drive east over the mountains and into the desert of southern central BC is a place called the Skaha Bluffs. It sounded too good to be true but Mike at Climb On climbing shop agreed, so we picked up a guidebook and headed east the next morning!<br />
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After saying our goodbyes to Randy we drove up to Whistler in light rain and found our way slowly over the passes towards Duffey Lake and the Okanagan Valley.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panorama shot of Duffey Lake (B.C. Route 99)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMTOvX33VY9y6poXAGTEpnHlM8Tx5ZHu-m2qfbEOyOQ0Lc2vHsMnrYO9He5VRicWHmYVyB5U160ylHU_x1VIMqHe8weH-ffE8z55aCntylCt9pmuWpASFeZ1HhLUyASqFdudpUdnRsY6B/s1600/Over+Duffy.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMTOvX33VY9y6poXAGTEpnHlM8Tx5ZHu-m2qfbEOyOQ0Lc2vHsMnrYO9He5VRicWHmYVyB5U160ylHU_x1VIMqHe8weH-ffE8z55aCntylCt9pmuWpASFeZ1HhLUyASqFdudpUdnRsY6B/s400/Over+Duffy.JPEG" width="300" /></a><br />
Another view of the lake</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLGw_2UveXZGsbQ3WWun2x7exCElbKeKtdipaoac6vtm0bk34KlBT73vq9c8nLWwoYLxR8EqhEzThuuzTwOZMc3BqTta7TTpVRcIG0xNINBiqxpmlKOeikfyCjG29ndj1jRtn9YOMESnpI/s1600/Skaha+Bluffs+View.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLGw_2UveXZGsbQ3WWun2x7exCElbKeKtdipaoac6vtm0bk34KlBT73vq9c8nLWwoYLxR8EqhEzThuuzTwOZMc3BqTta7TTpVRcIG0xNINBiqxpmlKOeikfyCjG29ndj1jRtn9YOMESnpI/s640/Skaha+Bluffs+View.JPEG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skaha Bluffs near Penticton, B.C.</td></tr>
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Penticton and Skaha Lake is the gateway to the bluffs and the climate was indeed dry and warm. The rock is gneiss (nice!), mostly sport climbing with some crack and flake lines scattered about on almost every crag. Once used to it, I found the ratings to be very soft, sometimes even 2 or 3 grades over-graded from what we are used to or the granite of Squamish in some cases. We camped at Banbury Green right on the lake and everyone we met in the area was incredibly friendly and helpful. We met lots of friendly climbers at the crags, the trails were well marked and mapped and volunteers have built and maintain composting toilets far in the backcountry to reduce (probably eliminate) human waste issues. This place was a true model for climbing management and here in the US we could learn a few lessons from them. If only Rumney and The Gunks could be so well managed! I regret not taking more photos here!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If I remember correctly this is the White Wall</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climber lowering on a sport route at the Red Tail area</td></tr>
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Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-82348288119485235082019-09-18T20:19:00.000-04:002019-09-23T17:35:06.777-04:00Squamish 2.0<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After 2 days of cragging (Smoke Bluffs and Murrin Park) and the forecast declining we took the opportunity to multi-pitch on the classic and oh-so-popular Route Skywalker at Shannon Falls. The weather (and forecast) became intermittently rainy the next few days so we continued to Crag. Meanwhile, we enjoyed the company of Margie and Ron at our campsite for a couple of nights!<br />
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Randy headed to Vancouver the day before the rains came in. Annie and I climbed Laughing Crack at Smoke Bluffs, the highlight before bailing out of Squamish. Plenty of fun but sad to leave Squamish without getting in a long route on the Chief or Apron. Climbers advised us to head east to Skaha where the climate and climbing would be dry and warm. The drive over Duffey Lake Pass was breathtaking albeit a bit long - so worth the views! The climbing at Skaha Bluffs was an extraordinarily pleasant diversion. For 2 days we climbed on dry Gneiss while Squamish recurved 100 millimeters of rain in a day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMlR4zfSjC0KxxHZkFklur793N6j9Vc1tlruHsNQue5BA0293FCZIDtv9Jsf7QGoTSYS382VLJDCg4NJqSPmXY7vZVBIAqvbYuFkNOcgr8ofy_FuXTbJkZmj36egPm1FuCMsh3-b0NMfwl/s1600/SkywalkerP2-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMlR4zfSjC0KxxHZkFklur793N6j9Vc1tlruHsNQue5BA0293FCZIDtv9Jsf7QGoTSYS382VLJDCg4NJqSPmXY7vZVBIAqvbYuFkNOcgr8ofy_FuXTbJkZmj36egPm1FuCMsh3-b0NMfwl/s640/SkywalkerP2-1.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 2 of Skywalker is a steep and slippery start. The climbers<br />
below Annie are Randy (3rd in our team), others awaiting<br />
their turns on the Pitch 1 ledge and on the ground, you can see<br />
the line up of climbers. It is said this is the most popular<br />
multi-pitch that always has a line. Good luck!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaCCRo5oPOnsfnKYN3hJh9pjDiJC3ufEj6HFegPyizq32w0QD5DYfWLIqHL47i7BynNkd670zdSB2SUWr1duR-Z1hS2974jGxekzk6R8MQJU7GuNfewMnR6-4olRrVtjyMztgpBWEnG_9/s1600/SkywalkerP4Traverse2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaCCRo5oPOnsfnKYN3hJh9pjDiJC3ufEj6HFegPyizq32w0QD5DYfWLIqHL47i7BynNkd670zdSB2SUWr1duR-Z1hS2974jGxekzk6R8MQJU7GuNfewMnR6-4olRrVtjyMztgpBWEnG_9/s640/SkywalkerP4Traverse2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The traverse on Pitch 4 is a stroll - like walking across a tilted tabletop. Nice view!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh41arNp-Wpd05tmtISWjcxVDpSkbzuah_nuW8SDuUSqNJFMOUQgPD9T5oMKnzJY6SvOThaYimw5e3XybX4nSvjZ49VdCAzID3OyjrsxDzTSUCBVVSV_m99-0QHjuxIvkB9WtmDKgV3-o_G/s1600/SkywalkerP3BelayPlate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh41arNp-Wpd05tmtISWjcxVDpSkbzuah_nuW8SDuUSqNJFMOUQgPD9T5oMKnzJY6SvOThaYimw5e3XybX4nSvjZ49VdCAzID3OyjrsxDzTSUCBVVSV_m99-0QHjuxIvkB9WtmDKgV3-o_G/s640/SkywalkerP3BelayPlate.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fixed anchor starting Pitch 4 - "may the force be with you"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYn2IsMtkWaUxgy2LonD1Eb9GeHmQWezwU388z6mK5Eq0o68QcihkGaW19DoY9k_Pde1TkRwEYYT7OYB_uQBUUaA0kwTidf0maKUIXO2H-DCZHIhu_j6bsPJtaFWkisFzrlqQwyXde5mqm/s1600/58B3DAA6-10A2-46D4-9D5E-1FD70E84DFBA.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYn2IsMtkWaUxgy2LonD1Eb9GeHmQWezwU388z6mK5Eq0o68QcihkGaW19DoY9k_Pde1TkRwEYYT7OYB_uQBUUaA0kwTidf0maKUIXO2H-DCZHIhu_j6bsPJtaFWkisFzrlqQwyXde5mqm/s640/58B3DAA6-10A2-46D4-9D5E-1FD70E84DFBA.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie traversing across the Skywalker pitch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2oXK4O-Fwlp567sU34lqg8UWr3V-hl7yQ-eosLb_PAUGwApYT7793VCI_vilsjrsShFO5fTT1wtAqzUJhkgf1WSwJrq0OkKaTcjuN_Tr9t-flVWmqnxWlItjUUClIF2FudtNwl64Sn2W/s1600/3+on+top.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1203" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2oXK4O-Fwlp567sU34lqg8UWr3V-hl7yQ-eosLb_PAUGwApYT7793VCI_vilsjrsShFO5fTT1wtAqzUJhkgf1WSwJrq0OkKaTcjuN_Tr9t-flVWmqnxWlItjUUClIF2FudtNwl64Sn2W/s320/3+on+top.JPEG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topout Skywalker</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0njLln-vFcApX18WZ69c3uN-teDbRdcBO8qJhbo6ZvMbR6rCGmRlEPV-RoV42sh5tMV5l22WzSjjrR6gDYFAmQkyoft1umUYPemhAA5nowOkqzzUIhuSwMluCjG8ox1-smnPIKlSwOMj2/s1600/Skywalker+Topout+View.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0njLln-vFcApX18WZ69c3uN-teDbRdcBO8qJhbo6ZvMbR6rCGmRlEPV-RoV42sh5tMV5l22WzSjjrR6gDYFAmQkyoft1umUYPemhAA5nowOkqzzUIhuSwMluCjG8ox1-smnPIKlSwOMj2/s640/Skywalker+Topout+View.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Sound at the top of Skywalker</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcnbPPK5KEmzEX0jUFrEkXmJmhJjFUXesvy7LHGQIanEuy3SmwFd39X1fWtq3lDogRCvs9XbYgPXp2JuwlWLiNTqVgdRmv_eX8S-Lpz97KIarfRMGAj4cr3bVSpNU95xoh-I0-tGh2-34c/s1600/B61C3F5F-19D9-45E1-9AB2-E394A1E75C66.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcnbPPK5KEmzEX0jUFrEkXmJmhJjFUXesvy7LHGQIanEuy3SmwFd39X1fWtq3lDogRCvs9XbYgPXp2JuwlWLiNTqVgdRmv_eX8S-Lpz97KIarfRMGAj4cr3bVSpNU95xoh-I0-tGh2-34c/s400/B61C3F5F-19D9-45E1-9AB2-E394A1E75C66.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The proof is in the sluggin'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmRRDRO5RzegzQPmesATAWHcEMH2ORfFVvYvbjj2tHxy9DE0ypomBLrFVZEWwh5ktq_2BszlLSenbDiv18DuWNBCAPzipiyIdhT38SbM0uN9MeE08W4k1PpS_LrG2EsBuwMYhORhyXMCz/s1600/Rainy+Day+Activity.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcmRRDRO5RzegzQPmesATAWHcEMH2ORfFVvYvbjj2tHxy9DE0ypomBLrFVZEWwh5ktq_2BszlLSenbDiv18DuWNBCAPzipiyIdhT38SbM0uN9MeE08W4k1PpS_LrG2EsBuwMYhORhyXMCz/s320/Rainy+Day+Activity.JPEG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rainy day activity</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4jWd0MQkMkEz_r5a24XeAcI94mDoCXyv_iI780dPeLUL8GYPze5AqJBOmOw_rcHJlwnt5C4C2Gzf7cet8m-rEljxkN5bzJX9seLbf4Vdpl892oDsC0etcJws8eWRdVSaTToMlxAXGeuJS/s1600/5some+MTN+Fun.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1203" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4jWd0MQkMkEz_r5a24XeAcI94mDoCXyv_iI780dPeLUL8GYPze5AqJBOmOw_rcHJlwnt5C4C2Gzf7cet8m-rEljxkN5bzJX9seLbf4Vdpl892oDsC0etcJws8eWRdVSaTToMlxAXGeuJS/s320/5some+MTN+Fun.JPEG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Five Friends at MTN Fun Basecamp in Squamish<br />
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Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-50467480735225978112019-09-09T12:49:00.000-04:002019-09-21T17:27:06.593-04:00SquamishAlthough we have now been here now a full week this is the first chance to post a few photos. Weather now (after 5 days straight of stellar sunny, warm weather) is the typical moist pattern with not much rain but intermittent showers sometimes true to the predictions, sometimes not. Plenty of local one pitch cragging can be had on these days. Only multi-pitch climb we have done thus far is Skywalker the mega classic at Shannon Falls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOHXUOq9uIB4HyiSMyYSmBVClUu6qYWL-zs5TWaQO3gZZyb6_XnOJRvvDG_Li8MrbC3WIoIu71ZuVm3IBpg8C6zKQ5Fmk4SE8LU_HGb78yYhZBIPcnnO_OWi9IzNaIgLdcLOverHp5hCq/s1600/81ED5560-5A43-4B2B-9E7B-B707E14316B2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJOHXUOq9uIB4HyiSMyYSmBVClUu6qYWL-zs5TWaQO3gZZyb6_XnOJRvvDG_Li8MrbC3WIoIu71ZuVm3IBpg8C6zKQ5Fmk4SE8LU_HGb78yYhZBIPcnnO_OWi9IzNaIgLdcLOverHp5hCq/s1600/81ED5560-5A43-4B2B-9E7B-B707E14316B2.jpeg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From downtown looking at The Chief</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmJ4jvo9H4FrMmZ9uhLJhXZtDyFGfvCNDLU4UjGCHJRIso-WlPweBh0phuFddhFMo7-xPBswjmgnQBORqr3qElORTBRiC8lZhtFEe8m-8yMtBQZvnG8VJjJFMlBJicYfdaL0Mskptqnz8c/s1600/01CC1CA1-9B9C-4668-9181-B8D1CCB764BD.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmJ4jvo9H4FrMmZ9uhLJhXZtDyFGfvCNDLU4UjGCHJRIso-WlPweBh0phuFddhFMo7-xPBswjmgnQBORqr3qElORTBRiC8lZhtFEe8m-8yMtBQZvnG8VJjJFMlBJicYfdaL0Mskptqnz8c/s640/01CC1CA1-9B9C-4668-9181-B8D1CCB764BD.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Randy testing out an easy line Day One </td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-87349354844489230282019-08-30T01:08:00.000-04:002019-09-22T21:04:25.563-04:00Welcome to WashingtonA day trip to the Snoqualmie National Forest with spectacular weather. Pics are of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. Click for a bigger view.<br />
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-33917307515735086672019-08-25T20:46:00.002-04:002019-08-25T20:48:05.148-04:00Testing with MagicWe are headed to the Pacific Northwest this week and will be in glorious Squamish BC soon. Excitement and anticipation is at a super-high level! This post is purely a test to see how easy (or not) it is to post from my phone.<br />
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The hardest part is leaving Magic for over 3 weeks. Eee-gads!!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1vsLPP8rEXncwR3nHtIyF5hiMlf8pJpdSn5TAZF7qhV5_I5LfrAKsGHR48Cm-k25xukWd64HgqZ-sm89Yn0KDVQgvJqVySW1jaIrmO2-R8KREK2w55DIa_7vL-O-q7hhXmIgRVzka19S/s1600/8F8B6DBC-EFC4-4C12-BDB9-1B2654D10C60.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1vsLPP8rEXncwR3nHtIyF5hiMlf8pJpdSn5TAZF7qhV5_I5LfrAKsGHR48Cm-k25xukWd64HgqZ-sm89Yn0KDVQgvJqVySW1jaIrmO2-R8KREK2w55DIa_7vL-O-q7hhXmIgRVzka19S/s400/8F8B6DBC-EFC4-4C12-BDB9-1B2654D10C60.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magic</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-55751843638518910912019-08-23T09:57:00.000-04:002019-08-23T09:57:22.099-04:00Cruxes RevisitedHard to believe it's been just over 4 years since my last post. Four years of high school spells a lot of growth. Four years of college marks a time when we grow up fast! Four years of my life (now pushing 60) has been, to date, the biggest personal growth spurt I've ever experienced. I'm not sure my attempts to regenerate this blog will be meaningful or fruitful, but I'd like to give it a go.<br />
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Soon, I'll hope to share some introspection regarding these past years. Meanwhile, I'll try my hand at the usual template with features and photos of my re-entry to climbing. My body isn't as strong, flexible or lean as it was 4 years ago which requires modifications and adjustments to the climbing approach. I do find my head is really back in the game though, and if you climb with a strong and smart mind it will take you far.<br />
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An unexpected visit to Acadia (Mt. Desert Island, Maine) in mid-July granted us respite, new adventure on mountain bikes and climbing at Otter Cliffs and The Precipice. Being near the ocean in Maine this particular week while the rest of the East Coast suffered in a sweltering heatwave was a blessing to be acknowledged! When you take time to breathe, sit still and look around you, it becomes crystal clear how fortunate we are. We live in a country of overwhelming abundance while so much of the world lives without. To be grateful for all the opportunities we have been given from the moment of birth is to understate the gravity of it all. Such perspectives can be striking. Just as you gain a new and inspiring view on a clifftop or mountain highpoint, so does the beauty and fortune wash over you when you gain a new perspective in the course of everyday living. Climb on and allow the views to permeate your soul!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBvgj5UJK_2_HhDXuoEyyJXr9xttImBkI1r1CgAi80Qk2hnLJv54WT4rpqxokRFIiJEX4Ywl5gyFJ9293osMY5_MYXqGL5eF20dUeO2D15M4-vBioJ01aJKcsIb7fw0t2L5cJ9eExTxXs/s1600/Annie+Story+of+O+P2_sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBvgj5UJK_2_HhDXuoEyyJXr9xttImBkI1r1CgAi80Qk2hnLJv54WT4rpqxokRFIiJEX4Ywl5gyFJ9293osMY5_MYXqGL5eF20dUeO2D15M4-vBioJ01aJKcsIb7fw0t2L5cJ9eExTxXs/s640/Annie+Story+of+O+P2_sm.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The corner pitch on The Story of O - The Precipice cliff, Acadia, ME</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-33433417430035431582015-08-10T17:00:00.000-04:002015-08-10T17:00:19.446-04:00A Swim on Slab<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmi4lHQtFa6I311gqWh18_bM9wTlydv5AilBXa9hueD9VxrBZ1FMOMfE1LxmYDs3BDWk8lrI9ZxAvhTiOoMCej_y7wPMaBL4OqRbgudTiTKG0T9WMSoDdwUeUC9YS1lxEaSREJ7Oxn9y1Y/s1600/Girls+Prefer+Batteries+Bolt+One+EM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmi4lHQtFa6I311gqWh18_bM9wTlydv5AilBXa9hueD9VxrBZ1FMOMfE1LxmYDs3BDWk8lrI9ZxAvhTiOoMCej_y7wPMaBL4OqRbgudTiTKG0T9WMSoDdwUeUC9YS1lxEaSREJ7Oxn9y1Y/s320/Girls+Prefer+Batteries+Bolt+One+EM.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of our 11 year old bolts on Lost Ledge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxkZWAmLhGGBmrNSK2Li1l3RsqUAlCEoDYvT1jUV0Nwa-ibx8LNdBdV_Nruc-6KPZeBC7Ypjumb0iNjV9zf6y0byOGZG_jdRUxJHw3x5HJGqXLdHkbNoJMCHFdJC_HAUKP5kVvKHrHEd7h/s1600/Annie+Follow+Hole+Traverse+LOst+Ledge.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxkZWAmLhGGBmrNSK2Li1l3RsqUAlCEoDYvT1jUV0Nwa-ibx8LNdBdV_Nruc-6KPZeBC7Ypjumb0iNjV9zf6y0byOGZG_jdRUxJHw3x5HJGqXLdHkbNoJMCHFdJC_HAUKP5kVvKHrHEd7h/s320/Annie+Follow+Hole+Traverse+LOst+Ledge.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie coming up The Hole Traverse</td></tr>
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Last weekend we went back over to North Conway, NH to dip our toes into some slab climbing which we hadn't done for a long time. <br />
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Revisited Lost Ledge after 11 years - a route we established in 2004 still goes just fine! We had the cliff to ourselves all day! Then we ran up Sliding Board on Whitehorse Ledge with Toby on a beautiful day. We got used to those slabs again after a couple of pitches.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuuwJ_aKGb3YkIj3-qnF1TEMls_Hipxxpzh9SPoRbxf3jhzQWrAqqu1pgWgRZhVt4cn3WAYvHnPPo4L4-ub6A_WhgrHc7qeLJ8XkojlAgf-GIZ7SPJeD3MpxT84VsogTbCvpaeevb00hFW/s1600/WH+Slabs+from+Sliding+Board+.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuuwJ_aKGb3YkIj3-qnF1TEMls_Hipxxpzh9SPoRbxf3jhzQWrAqqu1pgWgRZhVt4cn3WAYvHnPPo4L4-ub6A_WhgrHc7qeLJ8XkojlAgf-GIZ7SPJeD3MpxT84VsogTbCvpaeevb00hFW/s640/WH+Slabs+from+Sliding+Board+.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down the sea of slabs from part way up Sliding Board</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scary threesome on Whitehorse slabs</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-55388740427418893582015-07-15T18:08:00.001-04:002015-07-16T06:08:07.286-04:00Black and White<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Mostly I write about climbing adventures in this blog.
Sometimes I include more hefty and contemplative subjects, such as when our old
dairy goat <a href="http://www.cruxtopia.com/2012/01/living-with-death.html" target="_blank">Purslane died</a>. She was a beautiful black and
white French Alpine goat. She lived to
be 18 years old – that’s damned old for an old goat!</div>
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I loved that old goat. But I have loved no animal or pet as
I have loved Grace, the border collie. I feel so grateful to have gotten to
know Grace since 2004 when I met Annie.
In late 2007 when I moved to Vermont, Grace and I began co-habitating.
But at that time my dog Maxie took all of my energy and focus as she was a high
anxiety and high maintenance pooch. Post-Maxie
Grace was top dog and we gradually got to know each other and bonded over the
years. I learned to understand her ways
– quiet, smart, independent and mature.</div>
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Grace turned 15 years old this past Saturday. Using the
dog-to-people years multiplier, that puts her at 105. Can you imagine living to
105??? I sure can’t. But Grace did, and she did it with grace.</div>
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She had been in a long, slow decline for the past year and
it seems it accelerated in the past weeks.
She was on meds for inflammatory pain (arthritis), nerve pain and heart
medication. This made her much more comfortable the past months and years but
medication can only help for so long.
She was old and tired, stiff and aching and losing her dignity. Grace deserved the very best exit a dog can
have and that was our only gift left to give her. It is the most painful and dreaded thing I
can bear in my own heart. But if I were
in her condition I would want the same. </div>
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Now that the decision is behind us, I can feel some peace
for Grace. But it was anything but black
and white making that decision. One
always hopes for a beloved pet to go on their own terms and in their own
time. But that is as uncommon for them
as it is for us. We agonized over the
decision. “Is she in pain? A lot? Is she happy? She’s eating fine so doesn’t
that mean she is still ok?” The questions were plentiful and unanswerable. It is said by some that “you will know” when
she is ready to go. Unrealistic in my
view. And the tighter the bond between
you the more you have to account for a clouded perspective. We do not want them to leave us and sometimes
we hang onto them for too long. I feel
we called it right – I sure hope so. All
I know is that now the house feels so empty and vacant. We weep. We yearn to see her smile and stroke
her soft fur again. But she’s gone from
this world and I sure hope onto a far better place. What more can we hope for
in the cloudy grayness that comes when the black and white colors fade away?</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Jane Sobel Klonsky, <a href="http://yellowdogproductions.com/">Yellowdogproductions.com</a>. Please visit <a href="http://www.projectunconditional.info/#projectunconditional" target="_blank">Project Unconditional</a> to learn more.</td></tr>
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Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-73812223009613004832015-04-26T20:35:00.001-04:002015-04-27T10:32:56.590-04:00Changing PerspectivesThe long, cold, hard winter in Vermont helped to generate an increased appetite for warm weather desert climbing. We recently returned from 8 fab days in Red Rock, Nevada. Climbing friends, stories and photos never tell the whole story, but can provide for some flavor. What feels more meaningful in the reflections is the gain of new perspectives. I find that going on climbing trips, even short ones, can open my mind and shed light on things I might otherwise take for granted or ignore.<br />
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A prime example is gratitude. How fortunate were we to be able to take a trip such as this, have great weather, a comfortable place to stay, wonderful friends to share adventures and meals with, and air and car travel without incident? No injuries, no illness, no delays, no conflicts. In light of the horrors of today - a devastating earthquake in Nepal; violent protests in Baltimore and other cities; suicide bombs wreaking havoc on innocent civilians. Wow, I feel so fortunate.<br />
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On the darker side of perspectives, I continue to be appalled by the behavior of people in the outdoors, seemingly oblivious to their impact. Of course we all impact the land and resources in some way when we trudge along the paths in search of our custom adventure. But the increase in popularity of climbing brings with it numerous problems - most notably impact on the land and land-based features; impact on other people sharing that space; light and noise pollution. Worst of all is an example of human behavior at its lowest - or at least at its most ignorant. On one popular climb we hiked up the steep trail to the base of a wall only to find a pile of human feces right on the flat rocks at the base of the route. A small piece of toilet paper shoved underneath an adjacent rock indicated a complete disregard for impact - or as mentioned, incomprehensible ignorance.<br />
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I am relieved that <a href="http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.9219493/k.8DF2/ROCK_Project.htm" target="_blank">The Access Fund</a> has stepped up their efforts to educate climbers and direct efforts into preserving our climbing future. And of course all such efforts do not just preserve my beloved recreational activity, but all organizations with conservation and protection missions are essential to continuing on this planet in the SHORT term. I keep striving to do my part. I am trying to change my own behaviors, lead by example, think twice before I do something that may have impact on others - instead of lecturing from a pedestal. I am so far from getting it right when it comes to following responsible and ethical practices - but I will not stop trying to get it right. All I can hope for is that everyone else will work on it, too.<br />
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I know there are a few readers out there who just want to read the stories and gawk at climbing photos - OK - I like posting that stuff anyway, so no worries. But I ask that you keep in perspective the past and the future. Honor history - respect the earth - recognize others - widen your perspective beyond yourself and your mini-world. We can all do better.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Randy posing on a sport climb</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nancy on her first real outdoor climb! Go girl!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Group Therapy Pitch 2 - Annie heading up. This route is 600 feet of committed climbing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The intimidating 5th pitch Group Therapy. Runout, scary chimney climbing. Me no like.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toby, friend from NH, (who has been living Vegas for the winter to climb) coming up pitch 2 of Birdland, classic!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHYB0QrXn_ggNjXuLBd3-BWbGpsFsSZwS7lNUGtq-prkCJ6SSiv83yPRkrGt8e0Y7VwGM5_ym1FgEkcTCIPynCO4xsAZI2abfSOv1Xb7cNx33DZmTEgMWA_A1syZsD4RrFkZ3Oj2MeaY9c/s1600/Birdland_3Stooges_Belay4Close.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHYB0QrXn_ggNjXuLBd3-BWbGpsFsSZwS7lNUGtq-prkCJ6SSiv83yPRkrGt8e0Y7VwGM5_ym1FgEkcTCIPynCO4xsAZI2abfSOv1Xb7cNx33DZmTEgMWA_A1syZsD4RrFkZ3Oj2MeaY9c/s1600/Birdland_3Stooges_Belay4Close.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As I waited at the 4th belay, my 3 comrades waited at the 3rd belay. A cute photo, but 2 climbers who were rapping down the route stopped all other upward climber progress while they untangled their mess and tried to figure out where to go next. I can't help but wonder if they knew that 90 minutes is really an unacceptable amount of time to make climbers wait.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFVU3QCVHEECaNvndbHZ2AAhUZoXsWO0Rf6Fh2VuZdCR_H1IrEyOuvHw_m6Is3kKS6P5qjONkIAX6Wuq9uKNPkuG4fMIv_gkM-cTMyaukMFrh6XfvE8zWtBf4X4zEdYroaYkasGf3DJpXh/s1600/BirdlandP5Toby.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFVU3QCVHEECaNvndbHZ2AAhUZoXsWO0Rf6Fh2VuZdCR_H1IrEyOuvHw_m6Is3kKS6P5qjONkIAX6Wuq9uKNPkuG4fMIv_gkM-cTMyaukMFrh6XfvE8zWtBf4X4zEdYroaYkasGf3DJpXh/s1600/BirdlandP5Toby.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Super fun and easy finger crack finish on Birdland. Thanks for giving me the sharp end Toby!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHjEFH05fOPmtsRCe1EnjFtOJbBMG0ezD8Jq9Ph3KQddtVTjoBtW7p73SF3zKBK_r1WNCEIYz2YqYl1dMErTAjngQ1XkW1Dle-4vMYERdBLrP5RRz2EQyivkZb1AcMuqw2NBeaga176NJC/s1600/TunnelVisionTunnel2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHjEFH05fOPmtsRCe1EnjFtOJbBMG0ezD8Jq9Ph3KQddtVTjoBtW7p73SF3zKBK_r1WNCEIYz2YqYl1dMErTAjngQ1XkW1Dle-4vMYERdBLrP5RRz2EQyivkZb1AcMuqw2NBeaga176NJC/s1600/TunnelVisionTunnel2.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading out of the tunnel on Tunnel Vision (a weird tunnel behind a huge flake high on the route). I hated the 1st 3 pitches of this, but if you like chimneys and squeezes like Toby does, you'll be in heaven. The last 3 pitches were great.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sensuous Mortician at the Necromancer Wall in Icebox Canyon. Our last day of climbing was highlighted by this fabulous face climbing with a Gunks-like roof finish, then another fun finger crack climb to the right and then, unexpectedly, the highlight of the trip - see the last photo of us with the undisputed King of Red Rock climbing...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3tmh2COmnvj0_U4ttMbXQfEC-ielIX956Dz_plr2PWdiWax4byFVs-Puo5_FWI_BLqAPeGxzFbEehMRf_vOYTCDucEuDQ6XnZu4JYCACxquRX9_8ooMWIS-HO4c73wVEscLRDz3hbWIJg/s1600/Annie+on+Fold+Out+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3tmh2COmnvj0_U4ttMbXQfEC-ielIX956Dz_plr2PWdiWax4byFVs-Puo5_FWI_BLqAPeGxzFbEehMRf_vOYTCDucEuDQ6XnZu4JYCACxquRX9_8ooMWIS-HO4c73wVEscLRDz3hbWIJg/s1600/Annie+on+Fold+Out+2.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another fine crack finish on Fold Out. More technical than it looks!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHNyn4RoLmgD3u_2g5eXnoWhoTsONZkx3PMNFvlIhtGW2uamqudu1tpObbbF_v5QCFCqqxx7rPXAn-4PC2OJFMMJ3Hfn2bZIABD3pD_oE2WdEMdNkBoLvs7kaF1W_fM6cay-uySl82mGeR/s1600/Us+with+Jorge+Urioste1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHNyn4RoLmgD3u_2g5eXnoWhoTsONZkx3PMNFvlIhtGW2uamqudu1tpObbbF_v5QCFCqqxx7rPXAn-4PC2OJFMMJ3Hfn2bZIABD3pD_oE2WdEMdNkBoLvs7kaF1W_fM6cay-uySl82mGeR/s1600/Us+with+Jorge+Urioste1.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our rope got stuck on the pull on the last climb of the trip. If not for this delay, we would not have met this man - that's <br />
Jorge Urioste - the king of Red Rock climbing in the 70s and 80s and beyond. 78 years old and still climbing strong!</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-6927339653720686842015-01-15T09:49:00.001-05:002015-01-15T12:30:55.981-05:00Climbing Commentary: The Dawn Wall ProjectYesterday another piece of climbing history was marked. Like a waypoint on an endless journey, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson made their mark after <a href="http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2015/01/150114-climbing-yosemite-caldwell-jorgeson-capitan/" target="_blank">free climbing all pitches on the Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Max Whittaker for the New York Times grabbed from the NY times web post at<br />
<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/15/sports/el-capitans-dawn-wall-climbers-near-top-yosemite.html?mwrsm=Email">http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/15/sports/el-capitans-dawn-wall-climbers-near-top-yosemite.html?mwrsm=Email</a></td></tr>
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While photos of the great walls of Yosemite are awe inspiring, being there injects astonishment into the bloodstream. And climbing on the glacial granite there is like no other experience, yet for climbers it's almost just another great day outside on rock. Tommy and Kevin's accomplishment is of such a grand nature and climbers all around the globe were following their progress. How exciting it has been to see the national media cover their story among the daunting and disheartening stories of gun violence, ISIS and terrorism, politics and human suffering. While we should never lose focus of the atrocities in the world that need our thought and thoughtful action, we also welcome that injection of wonderment and optimism. Tommy credits his optimism for much of his climbing success. And as I read a book on <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Learned-Optimism-Change-Your-Mind-ebook/dp/B005DB6S7K" target="_blank">Learned Optimism (by Dr. Martin Seligman)</a>, I am reminded that Tommy is a model of this psychology and am motivated to learn and practice more!<br />
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As a climber though, I also cannot help but analyze the feat accomplished on the Dawn Wall. Their ascent is considered perhaps the hardest free climb in the world. With the explosion of climbing popularity that is creating so many talented climbers today, no doubt this waypoint will be remembered as just that - another mark on the timeline that provided opportunity to the next optimistic elite climber to achieve the next level of triumph. For now at least, many of us still seem to remember the great pioneers of rock that have cleared the path for the great pioneers of today. But I am honestly concerned that as time marches on these pioneering achievements will fade and become lost. Time has a way of eroding all things. For now, may we all remember and respect those who have gone before us and created opportunities we would otherwise not had.<br />
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And if you want to analyze the specifics and style of this recent achievement, check out <a href="http://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#freedawn" target="_blank">this documentation </a>of great big wall hard free climbs over the years. It helps to put in perspective what great climbers have done and <u>how</u> they did it. Tommy and Kevin did this climb all in one push - meaning they never retreated to the ground between attempts on the harder pitches. They went up with every intent of not coming down until they finished the project free and clean (no falls). But they did have support. Food and supplies were brought to them. Cameras and climbers on adjacent routes were all around them capturing their struggles and successes. What is next for these climbers and others like them? We can never capture the same moment twice - which is one of the unique and attractive things about climbing. The route, the conditions, the company, the energy all change each time we climb - this can make the same route feel different each time we climb it. And no doubt a new style of climbing is evolving and will continue to be molded by new talents, approaches and perspectives. As long as we do not lose site of the past that brought us here, we can appreciate the value. I have never thought of climbing as a competition (which is only one reason I feel indoor wall climbing is so completely different from real rock climbing). Great achievements like The Dawn Wall Project is on one incredible level - beating someone to "the top" is quite another. And if you observe video or photographic footage of Tommy and Kevin during their quest, it will become obvious that their attitude is far from competitive. Soak up some of the comments they make when asked what they were doing and why. Tommy precisely describes how rock climbing really is unlike more familiar and culturally popularized sports. He says "It's about spending our lives in these beautiful places and forming these incredible bonds." Of finishing the climb with or without Kevin, Tommy said "More than anything I want to top out together....It would be such a bummer to finish this thing without Kevin. I can't imagine anything worse really." Kevin echos a non-competitive sentiment. "This is not an effort to conquer. It's about realizing a dream."<br />
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Thanks guys, for representing our beloved sport in such a mature and gracious light.<br />
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Check out <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2015/01/14/sports/the-dawn-wall-up-close.html?_r=0" target="_blank">this close-up of the Dawn Wall</a>Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-91451283921842288702014-11-03T17:15:00.000-05:002014-11-03T17:15:02.748-05:00Making a DifferenceTomorrow is Election Day. It is important to vote. The act of abstaining gives away your power as a citizen. Even if you are fed up with the political rhetoric, corruption and game-playing, your vote DOES matter. Consider if you do not vote that you are letting others, who do, decide for you. If you want to complain, use your vote. Take responsibility, make a difference, exercise your rights!<br />
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Climbers, make a difference by joining in the Access Fund's new initiative <a href="http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.9219493/k.8DF2/ROCK_Project.htm" target="_blank">The Rock Project</a>. Commit to The Pact to be a responsible climber who lives by the guidelines of the pact and helps others to do the same. Watch the video for an easy explanation of this initiative and do your part.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/110185527" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe>
Spread the word any and every way you can. This is just the start - but our climbing future depends on it!<br />
<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-85238439604092910372014-09-28T22:13:00.001-04:002014-09-28T22:13:11.031-04:00The Colors of Climbing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We returned a week ago from a 9 day trip to Denver, CO for a family wedding. The first half of our trip was mostly consumed with family events. But I did get to sneak out one day with Randy to climb. That day it was cold and rainy (even a few snowflakes) in the immediate Denver area. But the forecast looked good se we headed south to Colorado Springs for the day. It was there that we both embraced the unique climbing experience at <a href="http://www.gardenofgods.com/parkinfo/" target="_blank">The Garden of the Gods</a>. This city park boasts beautiful sandstone sculptured rock formations. Rock climbers need only fill out a form for a free climbing permit and be on their way. What I found most unusual was that other visitors and tourists are walking throughout the park directly beneath these formations some of which have climbers ascending them. I couldn't help but think how dangerous that is for the folks on the ground - one dropped carabiner, belay device or a piece of broken rock could spell curtains! Needless to say I was especially careful handling our gear.<br />
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Our first route was The North Ridge of Montezuma's Tower - this thin rib or sliver of sandstone rises about 120 feet from the sand floor. The route climbs along the rib or ridge - providing incredible exposure as you tip-toe along the balance beam with minimal protection opportunities. The photo of Randy coming up does not accurately depict the feel for this climb.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down at Randy climbing up the North Ridge of Montezuma's</td></tr>
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After the wedding events came to a close, we headed to <a href="http://www.blm.gov/co/st/en/fo/rgfo/recreation0/recreation_areas/Shelf_Road.html" target="_blank">Shelf Road</a>, a popular sport climbing venue near Canon City, CO. Here the rock is limestone, a sometimes sharp and crumbly rock to climb on. We enjoyed camping and climbing with Randy and Dan for 2 days there with unseasonably hot temperatures our second day. I found most of the grades here a bit soft for what we are used to in places like Rumney. <br />
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What struck me most about the routes at Shelf was how many cracks had a line of bolts next to them. Many of these routes were likely climbed on removable traditional gear in the past and could be today. Yet the sport climbing mentality has trumped tradition here in my estimation.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The evening view of Cactus Cliffs at our campsite at Shelf Road</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie roped up and ready at Shelf</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing a bolted crack line called B & C</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Shelfie"</td></tr>
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Our last rock venue in Colorado was Clear Creek Canyon near Golden. It was simply too hot to climb in Eldorado Canyon, so our tour guide Randy knew the cool spots to go not far from home base. Annie was our "rope gun" the first day, putting up 4 routes in a row at the East Colfax wall. The next day we climbed at The Canal Zone at the bottom of the canyon. Great sport climbing with well protected routes. Again, a little soft for the grade with a couple of exceptions.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5UL2f8HKTcK1w-gTCf6IC9kuk-evsG5KLc14cg7QoXx8bCOBW0tAdltxGfsKx-DluxAfqLTlVEUmPOFtnoEBmMIHeY9CkB0n7F_8FPWJBHH2X3c2SWdciPFaO6Hy0GOR6gcsR_xlEFvrS/s1600/AnnieWhenIm64d.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5UL2f8HKTcK1w-gTCf6IC9kuk-evsG5KLc14cg7QoXx8bCOBW0tAdltxGfsKx-DluxAfqLTlVEUmPOFtnoEBmMIHeY9CkB0n7F_8FPWJBHH2X3c2SWdciPFaO6Hy0GOR6gcsR_xlEFvrS/s1600/AnnieWhenIm64d.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our rope gun at Clear Creek Canyon</td></tr>
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We returned to mighty fine fall weather in Vermont. While foliage is not at peak yet near home, it certainly is up north. On Saturday we went back up to Groton, VT the home of Marshfield Ledge. The 3 pitch route we climbed rewarded us with a view as magnificent as I have ever seen. Words cannot describe it. See for yourself.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhqjmT580RGHBx98hCzq5BNW4Xwhx4Fx_nTREg3zfdOlkgKGwCWAv0YStPNnGYDlw2cJIeW7yeWXb3XM10-ApurrMOz4TLXZzMIse-bj8C7ftbUHiiUvHqyjadILTt76KnFrM8cSdXMbuz/s1600/Marshfield+Ledge.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhqjmT580RGHBx98hCzq5BNW4Xwhx4Fx_nTREg3zfdOlkgKGwCWAv0YStPNnGYDlw2cJIeW7yeWXb3XM10-ApurrMOz4TLXZzMIse-bj8C7ftbUHiiUvHqyjadILTt76KnFrM8cSdXMbuz/s1600/Marshfield+Ledge.JPG" height="254" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is Marshfield Ledge from the flat road approach...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBRdKu8ud8st715yqjGBTw16R115pG5g2AXMwejmJ6CAVdpMZ2xLRQFPptdyFvPCSs-Kc2YYWf6JMysyNesBoRdTZUGtS4CThmyP_f6ZV8JZCydiRg2NcqTYvOnpfIfR5ixbXd5j6N4NG-/s1600/Annie+Goobs+P2b.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBRdKu8ud8st715yqjGBTw16R115pG5g2AXMwejmJ6CAVdpMZ2xLRQFPptdyFvPCSs-Kc2YYWf6JMysyNesBoRdTZUGtS4CThmyP_f6ZV8JZCydiRg2NcqTYvOnpfIfR5ixbXd5j6N4NG-/s1600/Annie+Goobs+P2b.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 2 of "Just For Goobs", Marshfield - just look down!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvAgd5ilwaztT6rTTp4Nq1KlGwaTXzMlwswJ5IVTYbSVrloDYYorE3TUD8fn6gSclornlGavGm5Zl7mQl8NGn3uO9CvA48pfMSobNsbXyCjHNWCHAhhNsyIONulK7aRWwOJ7WhveIHABt/s1600/Marshfield+View+West+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvAgd5ilwaztT6rTTp4Nq1KlGwaTXzMlwswJ5IVTYbSVrloDYYorE3TUD8fn6gSclornlGavGm5Zl7mQl8NGn3uO9CvA48pfMSobNsbXyCjHNWCHAhhNsyIONulK7aRWwOJ7WhveIHABt/s1600/Marshfield+View+West+2.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View west from the top of Marshfield Ledge</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-2605297864121627522014-09-09T16:19:00.000-04:002014-09-09T16:19:13.619-04:00ADK RockI received our new Adirondack Rock guidebooks today. Seems like not long ago the fab new guidebook came out on Adirondack rock climbing, but Jeremy and Jim have done it again. The Two Volume set is so impressive I couldn't help but to snap a photo of it. The covers and bindings are super sturdy and the artwork on the cover and throughout the books (illustrator Colin O'Connor) is delightful. They come with a slip cover to hold both books securely. Color photos, color topos, history, new routes and so much more. It might take me all winter to peruse this one! Nice job guys!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Second Edition of Adirondack Rock. WOW.</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-5588974877801058182014-09-01T19:24:00.001-04:002014-09-09T13:57:48.724-04:00A GiftTwo days of spectacular weather. Sunshine, dry, 75 degrees.<br />
North Conway, NH.<br />
Cathedral Ledge.<br />
Whitehorse Ledge, South Buttress.<br />
Weekday climbing, no crowds, no lines, no waiting, no yahoos.<br />
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Funhouse>Black Lung>Upper Refuse>Lookout Crack (chat with tourists)....Pine Tree Eliminate...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH2WhJubE9ZeIvfTxNTQKrjPms4ZZOjwey356OWfF3gTfZ-0TO5cD05X2oQivX7wdhnGdKGzS_jazYc2EMD4uePdZ1NNF9Uf-S7Yloc3klYpubDZkbNPDzW2CxHttq8_GIqFtN-Pm4RG_B/s1600/Annie+Black+Lung+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH2WhJubE9ZeIvfTxNTQKrjPms4ZZOjwey356OWfF3gTfZ-0TO5cD05X2oQivX7wdhnGdKGzS_jazYc2EMD4uePdZ1NNF9Uf-S7Yloc3klYpubDZkbNPDzW2CxHttq8_GIqFtN-Pm4RG_B/s1600/Annie+Black+Lung+2.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie headed up Black Lung on Cathedral Ledge</td></tr>
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Hotter Than Hell>Inferno (crack climbing on pitch 3!)<br />
New friends, Kate and Natalia!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitch 3 of Inferno gives the gift of sweet (albeit short) hand jam crack</td></tr>
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Contemplating a future blog post with some depth, as I consider the give and take of climbing...until then, climb on!<br />
<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-72788207478624942462014-07-22T18:04:00.000-04:002014-07-22T18:04:06.544-04:00Echo, Echo, Echo....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I started out this post with my usual descriptions of the past 2 weekends of climbing. How great the weather has been, what climbs we did, who we met and climbed with, etc. Yeah. I had it all planned out in my head and as I was writing, I realized how boring it all sounded. "We did this and we did that, blah, blah BLAH!!!"<br />
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Then I read Andrew Bisharat's piece in Rock and Ice magazine Issue number 220 (August 2014) and once again was impressed by this guy. His regular piece "Tuesday Night Bouldering" is a favorite read as it typically contains outstanding humor, all inspired by the real culture of climbing that presents itself in ridiculous fashion. This piece, while not humorless, was much more meaningful (to me anyway), and I would like to ride his coattails a bit. <br />
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One thing climbing gives to me is a true escape from the UN-pleasantries of daily living - mostly my "Rolodex Brain" (a hundred thoughts fluttering about in my head , usually all the things I should be doing or have to do). And since my work is in the information technology field, I am constantly consuming and consumed by today's compulsory tech gadgets, communications expectations and social media hub-bub. When I took 3 months to drive X-country and climb in 2011 (the impetus behind this blog), I so enjoyed the simplicity of the climbing life.<br />
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DRIVE, HIKE, CLIMB, HIKE, DRINK, EAT, DRINK, CAMP, SLEEP, REPEAT.<br />
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Andrew describes his sentiment about escaping the "social-media trap" by bringing his reader along with him on some climbing adventures with an extraordinary pro climber (Hayden Kennedy). Right after he hung up the phone making some climbing plans with Hayden, he "<i>...started thinking ahead to the future, and the inevitable TNB I'd write, Instagrams I'd post, and Twitters I'd tweet, glorifying our weekend excursion, which hadn't even taken place yet.</i>" Can you say "wake up call??? While I might not be writing the blog before I've gone on another adventure, I do understand this trap and feel my powerlessness to elude it. This social frenzy that is confining and consuming us all is gnawing into my climbing passion and pastime as well. I need to revisit my reason for blogging in the current style and how it feeds me (or not!)<br />
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Let this be my transition period. Readers, give me some slack (pun intended)....how about just some images, links and words to capture the feelings of climbing the past 2 weekends. It's far from the product I'd rather produce, but this will take some work - and some getting used to.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhlJsDHWhQ4WzDrnhxiid2cEM7OOavV_u7EVE5T9bX3dRUs4tnz5zyhhbE-ruf3HhsUtUWAYMcyqov0DVe3FOP8HaCrFRInXRQiEJJEkwCbMf2ADwQcbCcZ2j4gwH019gEBIeS3vN6YfU/s1600/Hanna+Bertha+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhlJsDHWhQ4WzDrnhxiid2cEM7OOavV_u7EVE5T9bX3dRUs4tnz5zyhhbE-ruf3HhsUtUWAYMcyqov0DVe3FOP8HaCrFRInXRQiEJJEkwCbMf2ADwQcbCcZ2j4gwH019gEBIeS3vN6YfU/s1600/Hanna+Bertha+2.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanna - Big Bertha at Barkeater</td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.dacres.org/" target="_blank">Click here to learn more about D Acres Organic Farm</a><br />
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The Iriquois referred to the Algonquins as "<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adirondack_Mountains" target="_blank">Barkeaters</a>" because they had to eat bark to survive. It was an intentional insult.<br />
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What matters in all of this climbing stuff we do?<br />
The people<br />
The places<br />
A quiet mind (all internal noise vanishes)<br />
The discomfort which becomes comfortable<br />
The new experiences in familiar places<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPgkY5ek9HRFAoM3yzD_L-SMy_2UG3NDTgDVUe80mFQ-GjVBBABRyVSINaJdEhF0CPvyBYDhgRKsgOudsmrAWL8Mc2GNWs1q_pj5FFoxAUxzZSPORLWh3Z-mqdc4JeiDSSImno9G8itsM/s1600/Annie+VH1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPgkY5ek9HRFAoM3yzD_L-SMy_2UG3NDTgDVUe80mFQ-GjVBBABRyVSINaJdEhF0CPvyBYDhgRKsgOudsmrAWL8Mc2GNWs1q_pj5FFoxAUxzZSPORLWh3Z-mqdc4JeiDSSImno9G8itsM/s1600/Annie+VH1.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VH1 at Echo Crag - Yup, that's Annie</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwBcebORGEj6DzfNrD_OwLVk025aZ4maXbLh4Oni77dusFQwKjZERbox_n8ihZGS0FOD4EvkHmlw_kgJdfYLmEG7xr0yDQwXhNOHz5l5G86Cd93vTVxSW5Qu2X2w_73gcjc24q5NkbsMDV/s1600/JedSkeletalRibs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwBcebORGEj6DzfNrD_OwLVk025aZ4maXbLh4Oni77dusFQwKjZERbox_n8ihZGS0FOD4EvkHmlw_kgJdfYLmEG7xr0yDQwXhNOHz5l5G86Cd93vTVxSW5Qu2X2w_73gcjc24q5NkbsMDV/s1600/JedSkeletalRibs.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skeletal Ribs - Jed is a superstar in my book!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rocket - or an advertisement for the Black Diamond X4s?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQxhrvpGx7cIMdXadEyjqklp6U1KJgAuUUCuWv2vTVGEwfWEnlNNxClVSNkuXxzf6mTrF63LV_XhAH331eNiVIUKv4uDxENTldXuBwLZkzZqFjEWrZyF7gXCLg2gIzyiVG4zovKA1kaGbl/s1600/Annie+No+Pigs+Hone+Wall.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQxhrvpGx7cIMdXadEyjqklp6U1KJgAuUUCuWv2vTVGEwfWEnlNNxClVSNkuXxzf6mTrF63LV_XhAH331eNiVIUKv4uDxENTldXuBwLZkzZqFjEWrZyF7gXCLg2gIzyiVG4zovKA1kaGbl/s1600/Annie+No+Pigs+Hone+Wall.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Would you believe the name of this route is "No Pigs"???</td></tr>
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<i>"If you want to be celebrated for something goofy and pointless like climbing, how you treat others is actually what matters most."</i> - Andrew Bisharat, from "Wild Things Gone", Rock and Ice Magazine,
Issue No. 220, August 2014Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-493092181788943712014-06-02T07:55:00.000-04:002014-06-09T17:40:23.868-04:00Old and New, Tried and TrueWe took Friday off to get a 3-day weekend in at the Gunks and mother nature cast upon us a blessed 3 straight days of perfect early summer spectacular! Would you complain about mostly sunny skies and temperatures in the 70s??? Never!<br />
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The plan was to introduce 2 of our climbing friends, Toby and Valerio, to the Gunks - they had never been there. The old gals from Vermont aimed to show the young'ns from New Hampshire the ropes. They arrived Friday night to start their Gunks school Saturday. Their learning curve was short as they ticked off one classic route after another with aplomb! Here is a picture of Toby and Annie following their leaders up Jackie and Classic - side by side. Cute.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdpkut9yjl9D7iqOBBMiKV-VE3rO25kFZicfeBfVBfNuiuCTLrUaJ377OPTW5yBtWbrKMXkBGwIUAIzeRT0xcIQZAlLyj5RhHMuFRrgvk-4w0IY8FrG8O940VKptRipwHUFY4Sh-32GmK_/s1600/Annie+Toby+Classic+Jackie.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdpkut9yjl9D7iqOBBMiKV-VE3rO25kFZicfeBfVBfNuiuCTLrUaJ377OPTW5yBtWbrKMXkBGwIUAIzeRT0xcIQZAlLyj5RhHMuFRrgvk-4w0IY8FrG8O940VKptRipwHUFY4Sh-32GmK_/s1600/Annie+Toby+Classic+Jackie.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie and Toby discussing the meaning of life on their way up Classic and Jackie</td></tr>
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<br />
By the second day they were sending exposed classics like High E and CCK.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIORMdVonLYkwp1hE6kkuxRRHKVvHEbgXWOkTEFMi2apae7I8idc8hZYfYcrFyjp7VRMI3AgG7wxcUfmyXm6uNZjRSwPVKV4gixC7cxmyoxWs5HalE3pY_uZ1steVPB0nZl0CUomyuH3SV/s1600/Toby+on+CCK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIORMdVonLYkwp1hE6kkuxRRHKVvHEbgXWOkTEFMi2apae7I8idc8hZYfYcrFyjp7VRMI3AgG7wxcUfmyXm6uNZjRSwPVKV4gixC7cxmyoxWs5HalE3pY_uZ1steVPB0nZl0CUomyuH3SV/s1600/Toby+on+CCK.jpg" height="400" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toby topping out on CCK. Sweet!</td></tr>
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<br />
Annie and I set out to try a new route we have never climbed before each day. This year I am happy to report on 3 new routes I had yet to experience, all of which I recommend.<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>No Picnic (a challenging overhang crux for 5.5 IMO)</li>
<li>Red Pillar (a very worthwhile climb at the Arrow wall. Do it when all other routes are taken. Looks dirty and grungy from the ground but far better than it looks. Wild finish!)</li>
<li>Unholy Wick (P1 only accomplished, but 160 feet of quality climbing! A Dick Williams first ascent, 1965)</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
On Sunday, after dropping off the young'ns at CCK, we headed over towards the High Exposure buttress expecting to get on one of the alternative routes. The weekend crowds were so mellow and to our surprise no one was queued up for High E, so we grabbed it. There wasn't even a line at the ledge for the last pitch - smooth sailin!<br />
<br />
The highlight was without a doubt meeting and talking with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Williams_(rock_climber)" target="_blank">Dick Williams</a>, Mr. Gunks himself. Dick was part of a work crew building new stone pathways at the cliff base and he was delighted to autograph our guidebook. It is always such an honor to meet the legends of climbing. It is one of the great things about our sport - the passion for climbing runs deep, so the old guys and gals continue to climb and give back to the climbing community through their entire lives. There is no such thing really as celebrity status like there would be in professional sports. We are all equals and it is easy to rub elbows with the legends. Thanks Dick, for all you have done and continue to do for climbing!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_4jK9UujTMh7fJAl3rzttortFaEVejFQxiZgF9fT5FhCcz3JchyIcv1Ts_Vq5WJnzFOtdYBCPQWiugSPMccg6A_pCd-Y3CLF0bw-Ls5z3VsgQoW6m9CgPx9L3RHbXEdYvqTGvPjUGjeB/s1600/Us+with+Dick+Williams+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_4jK9UujTMh7fJAl3rzttortFaEVejFQxiZgF9fT5FhCcz3JchyIcv1Ts_Vq5WJnzFOtdYBCPQWiugSPMccg6A_pCd-Y3CLF0bw-Ls5z3VsgQoW6m9CgPx9L3RHbXEdYvqTGvPjUGjeB/s1600/Us+with+Dick+Williams+2.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The legendary Richard "Dick" Williams signing our guidebook at the base of High E</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-16916223616513012152014-05-04T18:14:00.000-04:002014-05-04T18:14:02.220-04:00I Got a "Misery"Let's face it. After the longest, most <i>miserable</i> winter I can remember, our April vacation time was desperately needed and couldn't come soon enough! March was a complete bust for climbing outside and although it is not considered a stellar month for outdoor rock climbing, I've always gotten out in March before. With the decision to stay east for climbing this year (no trips west for sun and fun), I anticipated I would feel better once on the wonderful rocks at Seneca in West Virginia. However, Mother Nature did NOT cooperate. As the long range forecast for rain the entire week we were to be in Seneca became more reality, we contemplated a spontaneous decision to head to Red Rock, NV instead. Scrambling for a decent airfare, motel and rental car became the new anguish - as if I wasn't already miserable and stressed enough planning, packing and getting last minute work done! It was going to be expensive and we would get 4 days of guaranteed sunny and hot weather. But really at what cost? Red eye flights, rent-a-car hassles, baggage lugging, Las Vegas traffic and the mental and physical exhaustion resulting from all the the riff-raff. Ultimately, the personal and financial costs seemed too great to warrant 4 days - that would be better spent getting in a full week or more in a truly well-planned fashion. And so it was, our original plans to visit parents and friends and hopefully squeeze in some climbing set sail.<br />
<br />
The driving was a <i>misery</i>. We needed to be at various places in Pennsylvania and Maryland for visits with parents and a professional course Annie was taking in Baltimore. We also had firm plans to be in Seneca Rocks, WV in time for a reunion/dinner party Sunday night. Each day we needed to drive to our destination was beautifully sunny and warm. The forecasts were spot on with the rain beginning our first day in WV and lasting almost all week. The rain was spread about the entire East Coast, so there was nowhere to run. Monday morning we awoke to cloudy skies so we zipped to Seneca as quickly as we could. We were successful beating the rain for 3 quick short single pitch climbs before the drops began to fall. Not a total loss, but a disappointment for sure. I had a nice tick list going for Seneca and couldn't touch it.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGaGZu3iMxrzpc76jdSoacJQ0AuzYhGnSDEEPs8oWn21D4c8rDt8BEM3hBWMyND8_CPk4YGgZhp1R_YFJ3D3N5M1Nc6_ZyokIj7uSl9g9nnj-KQqQg4PQYv7o9W75NZFwC6ouhOgU-gbP/s1600/Moomaw+Dinner.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGaGZu3iMxrzpc76jdSoacJQ0AuzYhGnSDEEPs8oWn21D4c8rDt8BEM3hBWMyND8_CPk4YGgZhp1R_YFJ3D3N5M1Nc6_ZyokIj7uSl9g9nnj-KQqQg4PQYv7o9W75NZFwC6ouhOgU-gbP/s1600/Moomaw+Dinner.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our delightful hosts in Petersburg, WV. Be sure to stay<br /> at the <a href="http://forthillmotel.com/" target="_blank">Fort Hill Motel</a> when headed to this area!<br />Tell Sarah that Annie and Jean sent you!</td></tr>
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We complained some - but then we knew better. Complaining not only wouldn't change the weather but it would keep us trapped in our state of <i>misery</i>. The best thing to do is to make the best of it. And we did. We had a great time meeting new and old friends, spending some quality time with our parents and we were rewarded with a couple of nice weather days at the Gunks en route home. We did make a promise to each other though - NEXT year we book a trip west to climb in the spring. Let the savings begin!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNOmbMCVPgKoWndZVtpbu4FbofQKwxpKNLl7VjU_R1xIaNyyROSGbGXa3vxneS_tuCXD8IWIFX7aX7KhV2jZnWSMUIyBrlLmncr_bK60ceHCgqyXwm7Hcr-ZnVgoWpVqnco3Xf3jJfrDD/s1600/Seneca+Rocks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNOmbMCVPgKoWndZVtpbu4FbofQKwxpKNLl7VjU_R1xIaNyyROSGbGXa3vxneS_tuCXD8IWIFX7aX7KhV2jZnWSMUIyBrlLmncr_bK60ceHCgqyXwm7Hcr-ZnVgoWpVqnco3Xf3jJfrDD/s1600/Seneca+Rocks.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seneca Rocks. A unique fin of rock known for steep exposed climbing "old-school style"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6CKFzoLHMMlx-uPZdzQ3WCXEbZhVDPa3GURcq6IZ6Ia5K3v-mWPoOIzVJta21n-xb2dBkQGnQPBwxgXBxdqxauuslLozmCohjiyLDnIBaZjtap6-AGHGmDGhat3gqFHJWYWcEMNm24ijL/s1600/Annie+Candy+Corner+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6CKFzoLHMMlx-uPZdzQ3WCXEbZhVDPa3GURcq6IZ6Ia5K3v-mWPoOIzVJta21n-xb2dBkQGnQPBwxgXBxdqxauuslLozmCohjiyLDnIBaZjtap6-AGHGmDGhat3gqFHJWYWcEMNm24ijL/s1600/Annie+Candy+Corner+3.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We got in 3 quick routes ground up before the rain started.</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0Seneca Rocks, WV 26884, USA38.8348342 -79.376156613.312799700000003 -120.6847506 64.3568687 -38.0675626tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-57178603190396611812014-03-21T17:30:00.000-04:002014-03-21T17:30:08.702-04:00The Winter That Never EndsThis has definitely been the longest and hardest winter I can remember since living in northern New England. Thank God for indoor climbing gyms and friends, lest I go all the way to the funny farm!!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-47ues0_joMEWRGUWeulaS9VkDJy0NL0iCrSnJCUbTtokmrDJrhoOgRlKJQzEbVJ-kry4XRT7zPJH-DqZ0r3Lq3EYNJMWLLtUP5Ll9DNaAbLN3PbNyj78QQxKLFTqMM6DIvQz3Robuug-/s1600/Girls+at+Evo+Gym+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-47ues0_joMEWRGUWeulaS9VkDJy0NL0iCrSnJCUbTtokmrDJrhoOgRlKJQzEbVJ-kry4XRT7zPJH-DqZ0r3Lq3EYNJMWLLtUP5Ll9DNaAbLN3PbNyj78QQxKLFTqMM6DIvQz3Robuug-/s1600/Girls+at+Evo+Gym+2014.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rosie, Terry, & yours truly at Evo in Concord, NH</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-57447996403289294292013-12-16T17:20:00.002-05:002013-12-16T17:20:51.271-05:00A Worthwhile AppealIf you are a climber you know how important it is to preserve access to the public and private lands which host our prized crags and cliffs. You should also know there is an organization whose primary mission is to maintain access to climbing lands through advocacy, education, land acquisition and much more - that organization is <a href="http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.4861253/k.BDBB/Home.htm" target="_blank">The Access Fund</a>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu1cCUDk9zF99zvJJayzVlQz0A3nB2nF7H0R9WbQfZoSGKbAk4-fbbBX_62OXcmvGc-utO0k-PFbTVu1bG_NtWMVdJJRF5ed6uhkK3we3D5gIZ173_8eXh-fzyLImPZLOd179Pi1IDtKOn/s1600/Access+Fund+Logo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu1cCUDk9zF99zvJJayzVlQz0A3nB2nF7H0R9WbQfZoSGKbAk4-fbbBX_62OXcmvGc-utO0k-PFbTVu1bG_NtWMVdJJRF5ed6uhkK3we3D5gIZ173_8eXh-fzyLImPZLOd179Pi1IDtKOn/s1600/Access+Fund+Logo.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
The Access Fund is running a two-day "sale" of sorts on its membership, which is vital to its mission. If you aren't already a member now is a great time to join. If you are a member and it is time to renew, you can get 20% off your membership renewal. And finally if you are a climber (or not) and want to see the mission of the Access Fund carried on, please consider a gift membership for someone you know who climbs and may not have a membership.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.8479015/k.D588/2Day_Member_Special.htm" target="_blank">Click here</a> to see more about the Access Fund and their special offer tomorrow and Wednesday.<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-71112577599497102132013-10-22T16:14:00.001-04:002013-10-22T21:08:58.978-04:00Got Gunkified. Again.The Gunks is truly one of the best places to climb in the world. It must be. It has to be! Well, okay - so I haven't climbed all over the entire world. So what. There are probably hundreds of "best places to climb" out there - but I bargain the Gunks is one of them. Once again, we were rewarded with 4 beautiful days of weather, and now the weather is turning wet and cold. Perfectly timed I'd say.<br />
<br />
No long winded stories in this post - just some photos, captions and brief anecdotes to summarize some of our highlights of the trip.<br />
<br />
First climb of first day - Asphodel, a 5.5 corner we had never been on and heard was worth doing. The highlight of this climb was the huge black rat snake that fell from the sky with a THUD! I was lacing up my climbing shoes, stood up to tie in and just behind me I heard the alarming sound of something hitting the ground - at the time it sounded like someone's shoe! It startled me so and I was about to yell up to climbers above who I was sure were at fault, when I glanced over to see this huge black snake coming out of its shock, shaking itself and slithering quickly past Annie and down the stones on the trail. We estimate this snake to be about 3 to 4 feet long and plenty thick. While not poisonous, we stayed out of its way. That was a weird experience. Glad I had just stepped forward from my shoe-up position otherwise it might have landed on me!<br />
<br />
Some memorable climbs (all repeats and well worth it): Arrow, Something Interesting. Bonnie's Roof. Yellow Ridge, and Gelsa. Annie lead some pitches on Ribs, Gelsa and Sixish.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSKjzAxH7UTArZkCFD8JNQpzHduqe3fNg8vqI4uSNkiojZNBAyK9Gug14hlAiO8SIVau3EM8alKFsj4wyJfQmVUyR4WZflCSTyz2clcCynjoucqT-unGju_zeJeCTfrPRnYkfubCrZG_t/s1600/Annie+gelsa+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSKjzAxH7UTArZkCFD8JNQpzHduqe3fNg8vqI4uSNkiojZNBAyK9Gug14hlAiO8SIVau3EM8alKFsj4wyJfQmVUyR4WZflCSTyz2clcCynjoucqT-unGju_zeJeCTfrPRnYkfubCrZG_t/s640/Annie+gelsa+2.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annie cruising up the last pitch of Gelsa in the Near Trapps. <br />
This climb was first ascended by Fritz Wiessner in 1942.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYj3WLkrBIaCfkcp3MmT_KJONlLVvry_9Hp26z3Ex8E4POnOIBCcoRPDXCsEhn7c635UZEFzP0dTGgK7DUbErSnYmqOQmVy7lg0cRQ0R0yhKWymA3Z267ZbifUEa-zjFsfLU5xd9jqZSC3/s1600/Jean+Bonnie's+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYj3WLkrBIaCfkcp3MmT_KJONlLVvry_9Hp26z3Ex8E4POnOIBCcoRPDXCsEhn7c635UZEFzP0dTGgK7DUbErSnYmqOQmVy7lg0cRQ0R0yhKWymA3Z267ZbifUEa-zjFsfLU5xd9jqZSC3/s640/Jean+Bonnie's+2.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last pitch traverse on Bonnie's Roof. One of the great "photo op" climbs.<br />
Check out the National Geographic website link to compare photos. Where are my royalties?!? First climbed in 1952 by Bonnie Pruden and Hans Kraus (who handed her the rope as his attempt was unsuccessful!)</td></tr>
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The National Geographic website features this same photo op - <a href="http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/trips/americas-best-adventures/climb-new-york-gunks/" target="_blank">click here</a> to compare<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNr2fr_ssK5JO3RkqxJR-YSmJWy27uM_PSJrkavUTHIU2OYj-vXQWknWSSzmZwag-P8COo3xEyW4KEV3Q7G918poKZTxo1o_UyhPjAX3hZ4M74lSMBf27WnifE7gIXN2DciR7RCHgiMXA4/s1600/Jean+Yellow+Ridge+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNr2fr_ssK5JO3RkqxJR-YSmJWy27uM_PSJrkavUTHIU2OYj-vXQWknWSSzmZwag-P8COo3xEyW4KEV3Q7G918poKZTxo1o_UyhPjAX3hZ4M74lSMBf27WnifE7gIXN2DciR7RCHgiMXA4/s640/Jean+Yellow+Ridge+2.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, another good photo op climb, The Yellow Ridge at the Near Trapps.<br />
Another big traverse on face holds before heading up through the overhangs above.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsqkPsIdzTIL2F9aVnf4F3gBYzb8hTft9Gfaoaos9Lm6rKYW7W996_M_nu7P9tqInONgEVF-1uBf_YoWtOr7HySoG7TR7DeYLC3HqWx16IE4pv9wBppu6vAFtOQoUddsCWdOBfFIqJhOkI/s1600/Sixish+Anchor+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsqkPsIdzTIL2F9aVnf4F3gBYzb8hTft9Gfaoaos9Lm6rKYW7W996_M_nu7P9tqInONgEVF-1uBf_YoWtOr7HySoG7TR7DeYLC3HqWx16IE4pv9wBppu6vAFtOQoUddsCWdOBfFIqJhOkI/s640/Sixish+Anchor+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bad example of a fixed anchor top of pitch one Sixish. 3 rusty pins, 2 sections of webbing, one on the<br />
2 pins to the left and the other on the pin to the right, NOT equalized. Worse yet, an American Triangle<br />
setup through all 3 pins with tiny cord and a weird triangular hardware link I have never seen before.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Caution: Falling Rock Climbers Ahead!</span></td></tr>
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A new sign is posted on a tree as you walk into the Near Trapps cliff area.<br />
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What is up with this sign? What is it supposed to be warning us about?<br />
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Gravity - we saw the new Sandra Bullock movie GRAVITY in 3D while in New Paltz. A real nail-biter and must see if you like that kind of thing. I do wonder what my aerospace engineering friends think of it though!Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0New Paltz, NY 12561, USA41.7475933 -74.08680950000001541.7002058 -74.167490500000014 41.7949808 -74.006128500000017tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-62635988080731443822013-10-14T21:13:00.001-04:002013-10-24T17:15:27.804-04:00Nervified: To Be NervousAnnie has been on a theme lately, making up her own words and tenses to embellish modifiers. She likes to take a word like "<b>dirty</b>" and transforms it to something such as "<b>dirtified</b>" - Example in a sentence: "<i><b>Darn, I got my shirt all dirtified!</b></i>" This has become almost a fun game we play, although admittedly, Annie is winning. Recently we were driving up towards some road construction and there was a bright orange warning sign<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwLKgkDMg0ddntY3YUz1rOH59SUghu4nK71WnT2VvyPfXiWV7uWYeXxUkyFdH-bU-FCB5akl20hEFU5Ml1BSE_tOWlk8vf72HfnsjWuX7YPtRiziCD28xeCaWZY35MwQrgUREprCxRjNOL/s1600/ScarifiedPavementAhead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwLKgkDMg0ddntY3YUz1rOH59SUghu4nK71WnT2VvyPfXiWV7uWYeXxUkyFdH-bU-FCB5akl20hEFU5Ml1BSE_tOWlk8vf72HfnsjWuX7YPtRiziCD28xeCaWZY35MwQrgUREprCxRjNOL/s1600/ScarifiedPavementAhead.jpg" /></a></div>
that read "Scarified Pavement Ahead"<br />
You might imagine the laughter which ensued as we considered how SCARY it would be to drive on this pavement - or better yet, how sorry we were that the pavement felt so afraid of something!<br />
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As climbers, we tend to set personal goals for ourselves by working towards climbing a certain grade (difficulty) or classic route on a big cliff. A "Tick List" might be created to record our accomplishments and keep us motivated. I have had my sights set on doing a classic, beautiful and challenging route in the Adirondacks called "Upper Partition". This route is a large and prominent dihedral feature (inside corner) high on Upper Washbowl in the Chapel Pond pass. I love how this cliff towers above the pass - you might climb only 3 or 4 vertical rock pitches but once up there you feel (and are) much higher and remote. I've posted plenty on this blog about the climbs I've completed up there including Hesitation and The Wiessner's route - and the photos tell the story of the beauty from that perspective.<br />
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Having been on the list for years now, the time came to finally tick Upper Partition. I tried hard not to get myself too worked up about it (it is rated 5.9 and looks steep and intimidating despite its magnetism - it <u>begs</u> to be climbed.) I've gotten myself over-prepared and hyped for challenging routes by studying forums, guidebooks and talking to other climbers who have done the route. This only builds the anticipation and fear (AKA "<b><i>nervification</i></b>"). It can also set you up for disappointment (I was quite disappointed when I first climbed High Exposure in the Gunks. I had made it too big a deal in my mind prior to the onsight). But I digress.....<br />
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I had this on my schedule for a long time, hoping for the right conditions. The day was right. The weather forecast perfect. The climbing partners (Annie and Valerio) both willing, able and excited to go and climb it. And at the end of the season I am climbing about as good as I am going to get this year, so strike while confidence is high. A very early morning rise was mandatory to make this work in a day trip - but it was worth every minute.<br />
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We made record time on the approach (usually 30 minutes, we hoofed it in closer to 20 minutes for fear the parties behind us would beat us to our desired route). The plan was to climb the Wiessner's route to the big slanting ledge, then finish on Upper Partition. In short - the plan worked. Flawlessly.<br />
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Valerio took the sharp end for pitch one of Wiessner's. The infamous block move 40 feet up is awkward and strenuous - the stuff I hate because it is rated only 5.6 but feels MUCH harder when you are in the thick of it! When Annie and I climbed this route earlier this summer we found that crux move very unpleasant. I tried to the left of the block, then the right, then back left (see August post Back to School). Valerio did a nice job of climbing up onto the block from the right. Annie followed suit. My turn - with the benefit of a top rope I had nothing to lose. I still could not get comfortable with that strenuous movement so I found another way! I don't mean "going off-route another way", I mean I found a different technique to use to climb up onto the block and it worked beautifully! Not awkward, not especially strenuous and eliminated the need for the dreaded "belly flop"! I won't give it away here in case there is a reader/climber intending to onsite this route. But I look forward to going back and leading it again with my new technique - a welcome relief! But I digress.....<br />
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Upper Partition!!! Well I was plenty worked up, but worked hard to keep calm. In Annie's language, I was <b><i>nervified</i></b>. I knew this corner would be challenging, but I embraced it. Knowing it has protection throughout is a comfort. Even if it is harder than you anticipate you can keep it relatively safe with good and plentiful gear placements. I would say this climb packs plenty of 5.9 punch - there are rests on small ledges and stems between featureless sidewall sections - perhaps even a little more so than Frosted Mug (Beer Walls), Dark Shadows (Red Rocks), Hospital Corner (Lover's Leap, CA) or Recompense top pitch (Cathedral Ledge, NH). But the moves felt hard and there were no "easy" sections. And although the technical crux is at the bottom third, the toughest section in my estimation is the top out through an overhanging offwidth crack. The protection was excellent though, with smaller gear deep inside the offwidth. The higher I climbed the less <i><b>nervified</b></i> I was. It's a little like stage fright or fear of speaking in public - once you get started the jitters work themselves out. I think feeling "<b><i>nervified</i></b>" serves its purpose - keeps you paying attention and prevents complacency.<br />
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Valerio got some photos with his phone and I will update this post when I get more from him. I've posted the 2 best ones I have for now.<br />
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To Valerio and Annie: THANKS for being there for me and helping to squelch my nerves - what an honor and pleasure to climb the route with you on such a gorgeous day. The climb is now checked off on the tick list and I no longer have to suffer being all <b><i>nervified</i></b>!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf1YPUV6i4a1U1oTqkJy_rv-UDVHEDy-4v8c74g0e1mTLsUQ1aZZUozmUg2aF5LA_h2Fn87G2kDNzHoFBlNCog6uIEBSt60SuPT2LQxxBvWjqBWyqAUjrbxPPr-W1eyuBWXajLyulnBxd2/s1600/Valerio+Weissners3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf1YPUV6i4a1U1oTqkJy_rv-UDVHEDy-4v8c74g0e1mTLsUQ1aZZUozmUg2aF5LA_h2Fn87G2kDNzHoFBlNCog6uIEBSt60SuPT2LQxxBvWjqBWyqAUjrbxPPr-W1eyuBWXajLyulnBxd2/s640/Valerio+Weissners3.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Valerio just before surmounting the block crux on Pitch One of The Wiessner's Route</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaWbmaZyUdJz5wUqbG5aESMo2TLJPyKlZRMwo-E4C1MBNqFaHlMo3yFjO6Pj4IcARTtfLQ0GzFyRpZgO35KbJVQ2IJknR80JZy15qrJPTEl1UzjM-1sSUeplOa69aVXKYc5SYJD0aXKZtQ/s1600/J+and+A+Upper+Partition.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaWbmaZyUdJz5wUqbG5aESMo2TLJPyKlZRMwo-E4C1MBNqFaHlMo3yFjO6Pj4IcARTtfLQ0GzFyRpZgO35KbJVQ2IJknR80JZy15qrJPTEl1UzjM-1sSUeplOa69aVXKYc5SYJD0aXKZtQ/s640/J+and+A+Upper+Partition.jpg" width="359" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty good perspective of the huge corner of Upper Partition.<br />
Annie belaying (or pretending to?) and Jean near the top, almost there!</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com1Keene Valley, NY 12943, USA44.1897716 -73.78597209999998118.6677371 -115.09456609999998 69.7118061 -32.477378099999981tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5519632957621692522.post-62278233512510496752013-09-30T21:15:00.000-04:002013-10-01T08:43:07.066-04:00Reverse Pay Back?<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiktLeojb9aljKWiXIiZ0gcL0HSGa8eJDSxD33YKdxp1mcvEDUQNAZove9oQ49ClQkPS4lQQ1YNi6N-czsvsmRfJ0N5PqSuru_iIz3-9dM3yE2GBXmQcDEBv4bIc1PuAQBUMqGVBlSGHckR/s1600/Jean+Perfect+Pint+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiktLeojb9aljKWiXIiZ0gcL0HSGa8eJDSxD33YKdxp1mcvEDUQNAZove9oQ49ClQkPS4lQQ1YNi6N-czsvsmRfJ0N5PqSuru_iIz3-9dM3yE2GBXmQcDEBv4bIc1PuAQBUMqGVBlSGHckR/s400/Jean+Perfect+Pint+2.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading up The Perfect Pint</td></tr>
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What is happening with this weather? I cannot remember such a stretch of sunny, mild weather through September. We had rain on 3 days the whole month - very unusual. Is it some kind of reverse payback for all the lousy, rainy, hot and humid weather we had most of the summer? If so, gimme more of that for the month of October!<br />
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Fun at Deer Leap yesterday - met some very nice folks while climbing our last route.<br />
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Perfect Pint.<br />
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Photo credits: Casey Krevetski (Thanks Devin!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBG7uN3lS7o8sHm8NeMm1aZB2zh-c06hJvbDrcB9NIF6i3UQocQmq5nhwLXsEXUtPLd-gAxdlo4qtBserVte3nfsZ1Rin_OsvRBjr27jrz9jw8Pyv5t46wYQcCjy1S7v6X79GMYi2lFpm5/s1600/Annie+Perfect+Pint+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBG7uN3lS7o8sHm8NeMm1aZB2zh-c06hJvbDrcB9NIF6i3UQocQmq5nhwLXsEXUtPLd-gAxdlo4qtBserVte3nfsZ1Rin_OsvRBjr27jrz9jw8Pyv5t46wYQcCjy1S7v6X79GMYi2lFpm5/s640/Annie+Perfect+Pint+1.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out the colors behind Annie</td></tr>
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<br />Jean Goldsboroughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15590808948010985240noreply@blogger.com0